Please click on the titles below to read the complete articles*:

NEW> Spring 2010 Fashion Trends

Holiday 2009 Fashion Trends

Thank you, Michelle Obama

Spring 2009 Fashion Trends

Resort 2009 Fashion Trends

Fall 2008 Fashion Trends

Summer 2008: Eco Fashion

Spring 2008: Trends for Thin Wallets

Spring 2008 Fashion Trends

Fall 2007 Fashion Trends

Spring 2007 Fashion Trends

Fall 2006 Fashion Trends

Spring 2006 Fashion Trends

Fall 2005 Fashion Trends

Creating a Stylish Maternity Wardrobe :: Fall 2004

Travel in Style :: May 2004

San Francisco Special Event and Bridal Resources Are Key Fashion Finds :: May 2003

Image Consultants Judge Garment Quality

Plus Size Dressing

Book Review: 40 over 40; 40 Things Every Woman Over 40 Needs to Know
About Getting Dressed By Brenda Kinsel

*All articles were written by Jalyn Tani Lang. Articles written before 2010 were published in the AICI (Association of Image Consultants International) newsletter

Spring Trends for 2010

I hope one of your new year’s resolutions was to clean out your closet, because you will want to make room for some new pieces this spring. It’s a season filled with dualities:  bold and strong coupled with softness and lightness, slim silhouettes but also relaxed, and boxy silhouettes, vibrant colors and soft neutrals.

One of the boldest trends is the military style, with the field or utility jacket, in khaki or olive green, leading the charge. Adorned with pockets, zippers, epaulets and buttons it reigns as the jacket of the season. But you can add a feminine touch by pairing with chiffon or floral tops and blush colors. If you decide you don’t want to look like you’re being deployed, you can choose just a touch of the military style with a belt or watch.

There is nothing shy about the abundance of bold prints and patterns this spring. Take a global tour with all those tribal and ethnic prints. Some designers, not satisfied with just one print, did a mash up of several different prints. No one does it better than Dries van Noten, but it’s difficult to carry off for the uninitiated. Try to keep colors similar or coordinated and pair with solids.

In a season of dualities, you can expect to find feminine, tiny floral prints as well. Some may remember the popularity of Liberty of London and Laura Ashley. These prints do bring to mind garden or tea parties. Paired with a denim jacket or anorak, they escape looking too twee!

Jackets and blazers are always important pieces to finish an outfit, especially in the bay area where it’s often chilly in summer. The longer and less structured boyfriend blazer returns from last spring. However, spring introduces the shorter, boxy jacket, often collarless. Trench coats return as a spring classic, but the cropped version looks fresh this season. There is also the military inspired anorak for a casual look. Leather bomber jackets and boyish tuxedo jackets are other choices. You can’t go wrong throwing a jacket over everything, a dress, shorts, jeans, or a cocktail dress.

Pants this season are either slim or slouchy. You can opt for leggings or slim cut cigarette pants, which are very Audrey Hepburn. Or you can choose to go with a slouchy, relaxed styling with a dropped crotch that is not as extreme as the harem pants from past seasons. The menswear styled pants are also very relaxed, and pleated. If worn with slim tops on top, you can control the volume beneath. Cargo pants persist in being a spring perennial but update them with relaxed boyfriend field blouses with pockets. Shorts always appear in the spring and summer but are best embraced by the young with youthful, long legs.

Skirts are mini, short, flippy, feminine, gathered, heavily patterned and printed. But on the other side of the coin, there are the cargo and utility khaki skirts that echo the military styling.

If you don’t already own one, the Shirtdress is the dress to buy. In contrast to the structure of the shirtdress, the draped dress reflects the softer side of spring, along with floral frocks.

Denim is back this season with a vengeance. It is everywhere in every incarnation and is even being paired together, i.e. denim jacket and jeans. If you are retrieving that denim jacket out of deep storage make sure it’s not too oversized or acid washed.

Let’s have a big cheer for lower heels! The kitten heel is back. Wedges, platforms, caged sandals, strappy sandals are also still in vogue. Nude colored shoes help to visually extend the legs, complementing the blush tones of clothes.

Colors this season range from the boldness of very bright strong colors, especially a vibrant cobalt blue to desert colored neutrals of khaki, beige, camel, and olive. The blush colors we saw on the Red Carpet of the Oscars are also an important spring trend. Just be sure to pick a blush tone that doesn’t wash you out but complements your skin tone. Pure white is always in vogue, so put away the LBD for now and search for the perfect LWD. Metallics are always a welcome trend and continue strong.

Jewelry continues on the course of making a statement with bold, big, chunky pieces. Lucite jewelry is perfect because it goes with everything. Pile on the chunky bangle or cuff bracelets.

There are a myriad of choices that make spring welcome. Have fun with the trends for spring!

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Jalyn’s Tips for Holiday Dressing 2009

If your idea of holiday dressing is to search for that reindeer sweater, you need some updated tips to avoid Seasonal Attire Disorder, or SAD.

Bring out the bling

• Sequined tank top
• Tee shirts with sequins on shoulders or necklines
• Sequined dress or jacket
• Cardigan with sparkly jewels
• Sequined clutch
• Big, shiny, necklace or long, dangly earrings
• Dramatic cocktail ring
• Flats with embellishments and jewels

This season is heavy on sequins and shine, but you can calibrate the bling. A sequined top or tee shirt can go under a tailored boyfriend blazer for just a touch of sparkle, or if you feel bolder, a full on dress covered in sequins. If you want just a bit of shine, choose an accessory for punch. A jeweled cardigan over a simple dress from prior seasons can add a quick update.

Prints and Textures

• Animal prints
• Velvet dress, jacket or pants
• Thin cashmere sweater in bright color for layering
• Tights in lace or metallic thread

Animal prints can add drama to an all black outfit, either as a jacket, shawl or other accessory, like a clutch or shoes. Velvet is always an opulent addition to any wardrobe.

Color

• Don’t be confined to red and green or black
• Opt for rich jewel tones, like purple or vibrant ones like fuchsia.

Footwear

• Platform pumps
• Ankle bootie
• Embellished flats
• Over the knee boots

Just changing your shoes into something more festive can elevate an outfit from office to cocktail. Consider pumps in animal prints or colored suede. Over the knee boots can make those tucked in jeans or dress look ready to party. Pair ankle booties with lacy or metallic tights for a dressy finish. Evening flats are a perfect choice for those who cannot manage heels.

The Feminine and the Rock Star
If you are fashion forward, consider mixing the feminine and the tough, adding a motorcycle jacket over a cocktail dress, or motorcycle boots or over the knee boots with a feminine dress. There is a rocker like look out there, with stud details on purses, jackets, and boots, for those wanting to express their inner rock star.nine is mor If femie your style, ruffles around the neckline in either a camisole or blouse is always festive.

As always, consider the event, your silhouette, and your age. There may even be things in your closet that can be re-imagined. Remember to choose things you love that give you confidence--- and have a festive holiday season, knowing you are current and stylish!

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Thank you, Michelle Obama

Thank you Michelle Obama for being such a strong, positive role model for all women! For the first time since Jackie Kennedy occupied the White House, we can look to the first lady as a source of fashion inspiration.

Here are a few of the reasons we admire Michelle Obama’s fashion savvy:

The Sheath Dress
Michelle has done more for the re-emergence of the sheath dress as a classic than anyone since Jackie Kennedy. Michelle understands how the sheath flatters her figure, showing off her athletic build, tall frame and toned shapely arms.

The Cardigan
Michelle has elevated the unassuming cardigan sweater to a must have piece in every woman’s wardrobe because she understands that it need not be dowdy, especially if in a vibrant color or fun print. She knows its versatility, demonstrating in her inaugural outfit that a cardigan can be a valuable layer under a coat, especially if embellished with a sparkly pin. She pairs it with a ruffled top from J.Crew in a contrasting color and no one can say that is a matronly look!

Prints, Colors, Patterns and Textures
Michelle has an affinity for colors, prints, patterns and textures. Michelle’s inaugural outfit was rich with color, pattern and texture. Experts could not agree on what to call the color of her outfit, which the designer, Isabel Toledo, described as “lemongrass”. Whatever the color, the outfit was cleverly accented by dark green gloves and shoes. For the Kennedy Center Gala in December, 2009, Michelle chose a stunning purple orchid pleated corset gown by Peter Soronen. The Narciso Rodriguez black and red dress she wore when Obama won the nomination polarized people. Perhaps not the most flattering dress, it was nevertheless bold in color and print! They day after the inauguration, she wore a beautiful printed Tracy Feith full skirted dress in purple and black for the National Prayer Service.

Michelle loves colors, not only the vibrant and rich, but also the neutrals, like the Rodarte mushroom pleated dress that communicated effortless elegance. For the Lincoln Memorial “We Are One” concert during the inauguration weekend, Michelle looked elegant and timeless in a Narciso Rodriquez color block outfit in camel and black. During the European tour, in Normandy, Michelle’s choice of a Narciso Rodriquez pure white dress and Michael Kors white coat accessorized with silver metallic belt and shoes seemed the perfect choice, and Carla Bruni must have agreed, as she was in a white dress too, by Dior! Who can forget the highly textured inaugural gown by Jason Wu, in pure white, covered with hand knotted flowers?

For the state dinner for the Indian Prime Minister Michelle astutely chose an Indian-American designer, Naeem Kahn, to create a glamorous strapless gown with hand cut sterling silver sequins sewn on champagne silk chiffon for an abstract floral pattern. Wow!

Accessories Matter
Michelle shows her penchant for what is bold, colorful and fun in her attention to accessories. Belts define her waistline, giving her more of an hourglass shape. They offer an accent to an otherwise simple sheath. Everyone remembers the beautiful Maria Pinto purple sheath dress at the Democratic National Convention, perfectly cut and simple but made unforgettable by the black Azzedine Alaia belt.

Belts can pull an outfit together. Michelle has worn variations of a pencil skirt, a top, a cardigan, and then finished with a belt. She wore a transparent Sonia Rykiel belt with a colorful buckle over a bright yellow cardigan for the cover of O Magazine with Oprah.

Scarves function like jewelry, adding color and interest to any outfit, as shown by the patterned green and purple Provo scarf Michelle wore in Paris with a Rick Owens vest and top.

Brooches, like cardigans, are often thought of as grandmotherly. But Michelle knows how to wear them in an updated way. She often showcases a stunning oversized brooch at her neckline, or clusters several together, either at her neckline or to close a cardigan.

Necklaces add so much glamour to her outfits. A Tom Binns necklace heavily layered with pearls and rhinestones was so chic with her Peter Soronen beaded black gown. Like the cardigan, Michelle has also elevated the double strand pearl necklace from dowdiness to modern elegance.

Michelle understands that accessories can not only add pizzazz to an outfit, but that they are expressive of her personality and style. Her accessories are not shrinking violets, but are often bold and dramatic pieces, signaling Michelle’s confidence and strength.

Mixes designer and discount
Michelle is not only stylish but practical. Who doesn’t love a first lady who wears bargains from Target, the Gap, Talbots, J. Crew and the Black and White store along with high end designers like Isabel Toledo, Rick Owens, Michael Kors, Jason Wu, Maria Cornejo, Narciso Rodriquez, Michael Kors, Azzedine Alaia, and Sophie Theallet? For her luncheon with Nancy Reagan, Michelle chose a $10 striped tee and $25 coordinating floral cardigan from The Gap with her white boucle Michael Kors skirt! Now that takes confidence!

True Sense of Style
Finally, the real reason we look to Michelle Obama as a fashion icon is that she is the perfect example that style emanates from within. Michelle has said she only wears what she loves. This confidence in what she likes translates into confidence in what she wears. She is not afraid to try out things. Sometimes she stumbles. But because she isn’t a slave to fashion, even her misses are mere infractions. What we see is that Michelle seems to be having fun with her fashion choices.

We owe Michelle much gratitude for showing everyone that there is no decrease in IQ if you embrace fashion. Stylishness and intelligence can co-exist beautifully. We should all take heed from Michelle’s example: wear only what you love with the freedom, the authority, and the confidence that comes from a true sense of style.

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Spring Trends 2009

Unlike past spring seasons replete with romantic ruffles, bows and baby doll dresses, this spring segues into a tougher, edgier, more sculptural look that is at once more relaxed than past seasons.

Pants and Jumpsuits
The two biggest looks that shout “trend” are harem pants and jumpsuits. Both looks previewed in resort collections and dominated the spring runways. The harem pants and dhoti pants, loosened up around the hips, were draped or pleated, some with crotches to the knees.

The jumpsuits were relaxed as well as more formal, such as the one-shouldered dressier versions showed by Etro for an easy evening look. Jumpsuits were drapey in silks, baggy and voluminous as well as more tailored and form fitting. Missoni showed shorter versions of this one-piece dressing as skorts. Will these two looks be one-season wonders? That depends on whether there is a sense of inevitability about them and women slowly adopt these looks. The question that begs an answer is whether enough women will find them flattering

The dreaded tapered leg in pants re-appeared, with its unflattering carrot shape. Fortunately, there are many other choices. Slim legged pants are still in favor, as are cropped pants, and high waisted trousers Shorts were everywhere but best saved for the young.

The biggest news in denim is the light wash, distressed, oversized boyfriend jeans, which are worn baggy and cuffed.

Blazers
Those slouchy, mannish blazers from the 1980s are back for spring after their debut in the resort collections. These “boyfriend” blazers are oversized and longer, with extended shoulders and are often double-breasted. Some are in drapey, unstructured fabrics for an insouciant look. If slouchy does nothing for your shoulders, peplum jackets nipped in at the waist with strong shoulders may be more your ticket.

Safari jackets, a perennial spring classic are still in vogue, generally shown in desert toned neutrals. They are more unstructured than severely tailored. In fact, the safari look extends into shirts, dresses, suits and blouses as well.

The ‘it” piece for spring is the leather biker or motorcycle jacket, which can quickly update outfits for a rock n’ roll vibe. Paired with harem pants, pencil skirts, or even a floaty cocktail dress, this jacket proves its versatility.

Prints
Marc Jacobs referenced familiar American homespun styles, like the prairie skirt, the boater hat, the apron, and the jumper, but played with crazy combinations of plaids, tweeds, stripes, ginghams, and checks in multi-layered outfits for a rich explosion of prints, patterns and textures.

Etro, famous for its prints, did not disappoint and showed oversized, colorful paisleys and rich, intricate prints that recalled a Moroccan bazaar. Missoni, also known for its prints, chose to go graphic with large scale bold prints that complemented their signature stripes. Marni has successfully developed a distinctive look based on painterly abstract prints, patterns, polka dots, and stripes that are all mixed together into some kind of crazed equipoise.

Our new first lady is the subject of much fascination because of her fashion choices. Michelle Obama, in tune with the season, wore a Tracy Feith full-skirted dress with a black background and large scale print the morning after the inauguration.

Skirts
The focus was primarily on pants and jumpsuits for spring but skirts are always a welcome alternative and are generally feminine and forgiving. So take pleasure in finding a skirt that flatters you, be it the pencil, the circle, the full, and perhaps the shiny and sequined.

Dresses
The waist is defined in 1950s style dresses, with full skirts at the knee. Those baby doll and sack like dresses from past seasons can be belted and worn with a great shoe to update for spring.

Michelle Obama guaranteed the staying power of the one-shouldered dress with her choice of a Jason Wu inaugural ball gown. One-shouldered dressing was also seen in more casual style for daywear.

Calvin Klein and Lanvin expressed their love of architectural shapes in their sculptural spring dresses. Fabric was folded, pleated, and molded into prismatic origami-like wonders.

Grecian draping and wrapping carried over from past seasons, especially evident in evening gowns.

Cardigan
The cardigan was elevated from dowdiness to trendiness this season. It is versatile and ladylike, softer than a jacket, easy to throw on over a blouse, and can be belted for a polished look. Chanel and Marni understand that cardigans can be fun and colorful and heavily patterned. The longer, looser boyfriend cardigan is a more casual interpretation of this classic.

Sequins and metallics
While we are definitely not experiencing the gilded age, some designers displayed their love of sequins, metallics and shine. Dries van Noten embellished oversized blazers with gold sequins. He also showed a heavily sequined bolero over a jumpsuit and paired a patterned sequined skirt with a casual top. Balenciaga took a more futuristic trip, using metallic fabrics and Lurex in surprising ways. Prada and Versace upped the shine quotient with gold lame dresses. Metallics continued to be a strong choice in accessories as well.

Pajama Dressing
Dolce and Gabbana sought inspiration from the styling of gentlemen’s pajamas to create suits, shorts, and blouses for their collection. Stay tuned to see if this trend has staying power.

Sheer Transparency
Several designers used sheer transparent fabrics like organza to create jackets, skirts, and blouses that were either layered over other pieces, or worn alone. Other designers created transparent panels and inserts as detailing.

Belts
Lucky are the women with a natural hourglass shape because this is the desired silhouette. Those not so fortunate can rely on belts to achieve that cinched in waistline. Everything was shown with belts: tailored jackets, blouses, floaty dresses, even coats.

Shoes
The stiletto heels reigned supreme on the runways, but the platform shoe and chunky heel still provided grounding. Look for rich skins and exotic leathers in shoes. Gladiator sandals remained a standard. Studs, cut-outs and multi-straps achieved that rocker chic look in sandals and shoes.

Handbags
Unstructured, large handbags, like the hobo and messenger bags complement the boldness of the clothes for spring. Clutches remained popular as well.

Python and snakeskin add texture and pattern and were shown throughout the collections, not only in handbags, but in all accessories like belts and shoes.

Creative Styling because it’s the economy, stupid!
With this economic downturn, not everyone can become an individual stimulus package and pump money into a new wardrobe. Instead, we can be inspired to do some creative styling with targeted purchases and past seasons’ outfits to achieve the looks of this season.

Inexpensive accessories provide a huge impact in making outfits fresh. Throw a belt on anything voluminous. But even tailored jackets can be cinched in. In fact, throw a belt on everything! Add new shoes, belts, and perhaps a new handbag to your spring wardrobe list. Cuff bracelets, bold earrings, and statement necklaces can add pop to an outfit and even make jeans and a tee shirt look special.

Cardigans are an inexpensive item and a must-have classic. Choose one in a bright color or pattern, and then belt it over any kind of bottom or a dress.

Mix colorful patterns and prints artfully and then tone everything down with a colored belt and tobacco colored or neutral high heeled sandals.

To a pair of silky full pants, harem or not, add a simple tee with a large, fun necklace and top with a black leather motorcycle jacket.

An older, longer jacket can be paired with cropped pants or city shorts if you have great legs and then finished with a current shoe style.

Vintage dresses or skirts have this season’s 1950s look. Pair with edgy, rocker chick shoes so you don’t look retro.

Use this economic downturn to stimulate your creativity and to “shop in your closet”! The spring styles speak to a sense of optimism despite the economic gloom and doom. So take your cue from the runways and have fun styling for spring because after all, hope and change are in the air!

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Resort Trends 2009

Resort or cruise collections, debuting in the dead of winter, are harbingers of spring collections and a peek at what lies ahead when the daffodils bloom. Resort collections were originally designed for wealthy women able to escape winter’s thrall for warmer climes at resorts or on cruises. This gap collection, between fall and spring, was once minimal in its impact. But resort has come to exert some commercial influence, as women seek something new to brighten up the winter doldrums. Designers recognize that boundaries between seasons have fallen, along with those old prohibitions about not wearing white after Memorial Day. So, fabrics used for resort tend toward the seasonless. Designers are trying out fresh ideas, with less emphasis on caftans and bikinis, thus expanding the appeal of resort collections. In this battered economy, there will be less travel, so why not don something that reminds you of being on vacation?

Silhouette for Resort
The sleek, minimalist severity of the fall silhouette is relaxed for resort collections. This was especially apparent in the pajama-inspired suits by Lanvin. His drapey, over-sized blazers paired with wide-legged trousers looked more appropriate for the bedroom than the board room. Zac Posen looked East for inspiration in his pajama suit dressing with frog-like closures, embroidered designs, and slouchy but tapered pant legs. Chanel’s version of pajama suiting had lots of volume in the bottom half of the blazer as well as in the pants.

The same relaxed silhouette can be seen in the soft, unstructured shape of the new blazer for resort with a 1980s vibe. This blazer is no longer slim and fitted as seen in the fall, but is double-breasted, slouchy, and usually in a drapey fabric like silk, as shown by Lanvin, Chanel, and Stella McCartney.

The jumpsuit from the 1970s has been re-interpreted for resort, and is another variation on this theme of the relaxed silhouette. Louis Vuitton’s vividly bright jumpsuit was so voluminous it appeared to be a patio dress with slits for legs. Stella McCartney’s jumpsuit in a nude colored silk was both formal and relaxed, with a deep V collared neckline, easy waistline and full legs.

The relaxed look for resort is echoed in the genie pants that were in all collections. We saw this shape in the fall and it will carry over into the spring as well. The shape is loose and billowy, low in the crotch, and narrowed at the ankles. Who can wear this? High waisted trousers carry over from past seasons but are slouchy and relaxed for resort. Pants are moving toward tapering at the ankles.  Another unflattering look!

Gucci looked back to the 1970s for inspiration for the peasanty, long, maxi dresses in a kaleidoscope of patterns and prints. Gucci also showed teeny mini smock dresses like those from the 1960s.

Geometric patterns were in abundance. Marc Jacobs was in love with hearts and used it in oversize necklaces, prints, and appliqués. Diane von Furstenberg loved large scale checks, large swaths of stripes, chevrons and bold geometric patterns in her collection. Lanvin had fun with polka dots, while Dior showed dresses with animal prints.

The big florals and tiny, Liberty of London like prints from winter carried over into resort. Carolina Herrera featured an orchid print for her feminine dresses and sheaths.

If genie pants are not for you, don’t despair. Resort was also filled with classic pieces like Capri pants, sheath dresses, shirtwaist dresses, peplum jackets, caftans, pencil skirts, full skirts, and long dresses. There are many fun choices for resort that will transport you away for a virtual vacation even if a cruise is not in your future. And you can get a jump (or a jumpsuit) on spring, which promises to be just around the corner.

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Fall 2008 Fashion Trends

As we look at the trends for fall 2008, we can’t ignore the faltering economy and how it has perhaps affected shopping habits. So with the fall trends as a backdrop, let’s assess what are some key pieces, what are some carryovers from past seasons, what staples can be integrated into this season, and what are good investment pieces with lasting style.

Minimalist silhouette
The contraction of the economy seemed to be echoed in the stripped down simplicity of the silhouette for fall, austere in its structure. YSL emphasized sharp tailoring in the shoulders, with peplums that focused on the waist and volume reserved for the hemlines and tails. Balenciaga’s streamlined styles hugged the body in sharply geometric black sheaths with big sexy, slits in the skirt for a modernist take on the lean LBD. As a leading exponent of minimalist dressing, Jil Sander has long understood the importance of line and cut. Darts ran vertically up the torso and pleated tucks ran horizontally around the body in sculptural dresses, both for day and evening. Fabric was folded and pleated to create asymmetric funnel necklines in coats and jackets. Some tunics were outsized and fell away from the body but were pleated and folded for shape and drape. Bottega Veneta demonstrated that simplicity can also be achieved through artful draping of jersey and gauzy woolens for an elegantly elongated line, with the fabric flowing over the body.

Fabrics and Prints
Lace is the fall’s hot new fabric thanks to Prada. Always the innovator, Prada took something usually associated with delicacy and gave it heft with liberal use of a rich, heavy lace called “guipure”. The lace is see-through but made from heavy cotton, Lurex and wool, sewn together with heavy threads, and embroidered on old machines. While the fabric is heavy and baroque, the shapes are simple and covered up, resulting in a severity of line that is at once old world and new. Lace cropped up throughout the collections. Chanel made gloves and leggings from ultra-delicate lace with Lycra.

Dries van Noten carried into fall his explosion of prints for spring with limited edition marbleized floral prints, along with overblown florals on black backgrounds. The pieces are meant to be mixed for interplay with pattern and palette. The shapes remained simple and loose.

Balenciaga hand-painted landscapes reminiscent of Chinese silk screens with degrade air-brushed paint on varnished latex sheath dresses that were at once severe and lush.

Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan understood the importance of texture in their use of sumptuous velvet in beautifully draped and cut evening gowns in rich colors like pumpkin and red.

The floral patterns from spring have been re-imagined for fall with darker, moodier backgrounds and a more intense color palette. These sweetly floral dresses look best with opaque black tights and booties to banish any whiff of summer.

As an antidote to this season’s stark minimalism, Gucci’s gaily multicolored prints exploded with a folkloric, tribal appeal, recalling the bohemian trend from past seasons. Paisley prints, fringe details, and gypsy like outfits also had that boho vibe.

Colors
Black is back as the dominant color for fall, which is good news to all who have this as a staple in the wardrobe. Black complements the architectural qualities of the silhouette for fall. If like most, your wardrobe is full of basics in black, consider adding something not so basic. Perhaps a texture like lace, or a severely sculpted piece, or a curvy, sexy dress, or an interesting detail like a peplum waist, or something ruffled.

Purple and all its variants were shown in every collection. Strong berry shades were also prominent as were fall’s autumnal palette.

If all these strong colors do not suit you, turn to the muted pastels used so effectively in Marc Jacobs’ collection. They mix beautifully with the fall colors, as well as with soft floral prints and brocades.

Pants
Pants anchor the look this season, as opposed to past seasons that highlighted the dress or the skirt. The new shape this season is the drop-crotch trouser, or harem pants, or dhoti. The shape is very baggy, sometimes cropped, usually belted at the waist or hips.
As favored by Louis Vuitton and Nina Ricci, these pants were fashioned in silk and luxurious fabrics for a dressier, evening look. Like the Jodhpur pants from last fall this is a runway look that does not translate to easy street wear for all shapes and sizes. However, they signify a definite loosening up of the skinny pant, which is still having a run, especially in lean suiting. High waisted, wide legged trousers continue their popularity from past seasons.

Jackets
The jacket is the other key piece to go along with pants and skirts, and the choices are legion. Very fitted jackets with sculpted peplums, boxy fifties styled jackets, jackets in lace, Chanel’s classic tweed jackets, Marc Jacobs’ relaxed jackets with volume in the back, and jackets longer in the back with rounded hem as seen at Nina Ricci and YSL add real dash to pants or skirts for a chic outfit. The classic fitted blazer or longer, more relaxed boyfriend jackets are easy throw on pieces. It wouldn’t be fall without plaid jackets, often paired with vests for a menswear look. Look for the re-emergence of that cool biker or bomber jacket in leather.

The Blouse
The blouse with tiers of ruffles or big, floppy bows would be a worthy addition to your wardrobe if you don’t already have one. It’s the perfect feminine touch to tone down a tough look like a biker jacket, or to complement a feminine skirt.

Skirts and Hemlines
That old saw about hemlines falling with a falling economy seems to be true this season. Fuller, longer skirts like those in the Dolce and Gabbana collection grazed the calves for a 1970s look. Long flowy dresses and long coats were everywhere on the runways. But designers like Gucci also showed short full skirts with a hippie, boho flair, while other designers gathered skirts into a tulip shape. Hemlines are otherwise at the knee of just below the knee, with some skirts slit up to the thighs for a seductive touch.  Pencil skirts are always welcome each season, timeless in their appeal and flattering to most shapes.

Statement necklaces
If restraint has been shown in silhouette, it is nowhere in evidence in jewelry this season. Big, flamboyant statement necklaces of faux gemstones were the accessory of choice for most designers. There were chunky crystal pendants at Lanvin, sparkly serpents at Vera Wang, sculpted tin at Louis Vuitton, and layers of heavy chains at Givenchy. So store those tiny, delicate pendants and pile on some show stoppers over a simple outfit for an instant update of the season.

Satchel handbags and clutches
Handbags took the backseat to the obsession with big bling this season. But satchel handbags with top handles, structured handbags with chain handles, and clutches continued to be strong trends.

Stilettos, booties, and flats
The big news in footwear is the return of the sexy stiletto heel, in pumps as well as boots, in rich, bright colors as well as textures, like suede and animal skins. In fact, the heel became the focus for much creativity in footwear and were often heavily carved and sculpted. Ankle boots or booties are carryovers from past seasons and look best with coordinating hose to elongate the leg. Influenced by the summer gladiator sandal, fall’s booties sported cutouts and straps. Jil Sander showed over-the-knee boots with platforms under pencil skirts. Sky high platforms continue to be a strong trend and add height and balance with the wider legged pants. Flats and flat boots are still in fashion and good news for those who cannot walk on five inch heels.

The Summation of the Season

The Key pieces
There are some key pieces to update your wardrobe this season, keeping in mind that the streamlined, structured silhouette spells current. A big statement necklace can make a huge impact on a dress from past seasons. If you can wear stiletto heels, they will update any outfit. A ruffled blouse peeking out from a structured jacket or a vest is another key piece. Make sure you have something in lace or a dark floral print. Color is always a quick way to be au courant, with black, purple and berry leading the way. None of these pieces need be expensive or haute couture, with so many choices in all price points. This is the perfect season to mix the high with the low and to integrate the new with
the old.

The Carryovers and the Staples
Carryovers from past seasons and staples form the backbone of working wardrobes and are especially important in a shifting economy. The pencil skirt and the sheath dress are two beloved staple in many wardrobes. If you already have them in black, consider one in a texture or print. The color black is always a staple and dominates this fall. The ruffled and bowed blouse is another important carryover piece, and pairs nicely with classic menswear style blazers and vests, staples that re-appear each season. The pointed toe stiletto heels always seem to come back into vogue, so dig them out of storage for the fall. You may have tossed that long skirt, but if you haven’t, this is the time to allow it to see the light of day. Wide legged trousers and jeans have been popular for several seasons and have become staples in many wardrobes, ditto for the biker and bomber jacket. In accessories, the satchel handbag and the clutch are carryovers from past seasons. Show your creativity by throwing these carryovers and staples into the fall mix.

The Investment Pieces
The little black dress is always a good investment, as is just about anything in black with impeccable tailoring that fits perfectly and flatters your shape. Pencil skirts and sheath dresses always provide a good return on your investment, along with classic blazers and trousers. Rich fabrics like brocades, lace, and velvet re-appear each fall and if classic in style, are also good investment pieces.

Fall introduces a definite new direction away from the extravagance and big volumes of past seasons toward an elegant, structured minimalism. With the dollar in decline, it’s even more important this season to invest in pieces that are immune to the vagaries of flashy trend. This fall offers some beautiful, timeless choices.

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Summer 2008: Eco Fashion

Once upon a time the mention of eco fashion evoked images of scratchy, shapeless hemp bag dresses. As we have become more ecologically sophisticated, so has eco fashion, no longer an oxymoron. Many designers are successful in marrying high fashion design with reverence for our resources, including the following designers.

ECO DESIGNERS
Phillip Lim’s ten piece eco collection, Go Green Go, is environmentally friendly and stylish, with sophisticated details like hand pleating and covered buttons. The collection features bib-front tanks, cropped pants, and embroidered tunic dresses made from sustainable, natural cottons without dyes and lined in organic silks. Each item is washed with tennis balls to impart a worn-in look. Lim will extend his eco line to his men’s and children’s lines soon. www.31philliplim.com

Koi Suwannagate, originally from Thailand, toiled in obscurity, creating one-of-a-kind commissions for celebrities from her small LA apartment. Some in the fashion industry credit her with popularizing the reconstruction trend. Her three dimensional designs of recycled cashmere and sculpted cotton have become collectibles and can now be found at Barney’s and other boutiques. Koi presented her first runway show for Fall 2008 in NYC. She has also collaborated with Philip Lim. www.koisuwannagate.com

Stewart + Brown, a husband and wife team uses Mongolian cashmere, organic cotton, merino wool, and surplus fabrics to create feminine sweaters, tops, and diaphanous dresses. They offer many layering options because the materials are so soft and thin. 1% of all sales are donated to non-profit, non-governmental environmental and social welfare organizations. www.stewartbrown.com

Linda Loudermilk designs for both men and women and works in sustainable fabrics, such as sasawashi, soya and other exotic self-sustaining plants. She creates beautiful dresses from bamboo, bamboo jersey, and lyocell, which is made from tree bark, with the hand and drape of silk. This designer is proof that you need not sacrifice style to be green. www.lindaloudermilk.com

Lara Miller works in sustainable fabrics as well, like a blouse in sea cell, which is a blend of cotton and seaweed. Seaweed is naturally antibacterial and lends the skin beneficial minerals. Her line is quite versatile, incorporating principles of architecture and geometry. Pieces can be twisted, wrapped, and most flipped upside down to reveal a whole new garment. She also offers structured, tailored garments. www.laramiller.net

Stella McCartney needs no introduction as a fashion setter. She is a lifelong vegetarian and her collections use no animals or furs. Her stylish shoes are made from a leather-like plant derivative. She also designs for Addidas. www.stellamccartney.com

Terra Plana shoes are created from a variety of eco-friendly materials:  vegetable tanned leathers, recycled materials, pure latex soling materials, recycled rubber soles and recycled foam foot beds. They also use E-leather, a revolutionary leather by-product, finished to be practically indistinguishable from good quality leather. www.terraplana.com

Cri de Coeur shoes debuted in Spring 2008 with stylish, contemporary women’s footwear made by hand as much as possible in Europe. The environmentally friendly shoes are entirely free of animal products. They have partnered with the carbonfund.org to offset all carbon emissions that they can't avoid and have pledged to plant a tree for every pair of shoes sold. As noted on their website: “Not your usual vegan footwear, there’s no sign of the ‘granola, hippie’ stereotype here.  These are shoes for serious fashionistas, with a conscience.” www.cri-de-coeur.com

Taryn Rose Verde shoes is a small eco collection that debuted for Spring 2008 of yoga and walking shoe inspired footwear, including a flat mary jane. The leather of the shoes has been tanned using all-natural dyes, and the shoes are assembled with non-toxic glues. The rubber soles used throughout have a vegetable oil base as opposed to petroleum, making the shoes completely recyclable. www.tarynrose.com

Terra Pax backpacks and bags are made from a hemp shell fabric instead of synthetic fabrics, which are made from petrochemicals and dyed using heavy metals. They believe in creating industry to operate like an ecological system in balance, so no waste and total accountability. They will purchase the solid brass hardware and fittings from the consumer at the end of the products lifetime for 20 percent off the price of a new Terra Pax product. They believe their materials are substantial enough that they can reuse them in new products and eliminate obsolescence. www.terrapax.com

Noon Solar handbags have flexible solar panels integrated into their design, so you can include renewable energy into your daily routine and charge your cell phone and iPod while on the run. The handbags are fashioned from hand-dyed hemp and cotton fabrics and chrome-free leathers, which have also been naturally dyed and tanned. Natural dyes can vary so each bag is one-of-a kind. www.noonsolar.com
 
Toby Pomeroy is one of the first jewelers to work in 100 percent reclaimed gold and silver. Disturbed by the environmental impacts of traditional precious metals mining, he asked the nation’s largest gold supplier and refiner if they would be willing to supply him with reclaimed metals. With their assent, he demonstrated how one person’s initiative can spur environmental consciousness in an entire industry. His classic pieces, inspired from nature, are available locally at Manika Jewelry. www.tobypomeroy and www.manikajewelry.com

Del Forte Denim garments are sewn and finished in Los Angeles with 100 percent organic cotton. It takes 2/3 of a pound of pesticides to make one pair of jeans. Conventional cotton accounts for 10 percent of global pesticide use. They have partnered with The Sustainable Cotton Project, which brings together farmers, manufacturers and consumers to pioneer markets for certified organically grown and sustainable cotton. A portion of Del Forte Denim’s proceeds goes to support The SCP. They also sponsor Project Rejeaneration. You can send your used jeans back to them and they will re-fashion them to produce the second generation of Rejeaneration Denim. These unique styles are embellished with vintage fabrics and trims and incorporate handcrafts collected from around the world. www.delforte.com

The following are some eco boutiques and stores to investigate, both in San Francisco and the east bay.

ECO BOUTIQUES & STORES
Atomic Garden in Rockridge, Oakland, 5453 College Ave, (510) 923-0543, carries gift items, house wares, clothing, stationery and home décor. Everything is sustainable, recycled, salvaged, organic, or handmade. www.atomicgardenoakland.com

August, 5410 College Ave., (510) 652-2711, is a Rockridge boutique, for both men and women, carrying premium European denim, as well as clothing by Edun, Rogan, Martin Margiela, and Vena Cava, cashmere by Inhabit, Park Vogel, Lainey, The Reeds, and Stewart+Brown. They buy organic fibers and socially responsible products whenever possible. www.augustshop.com

Tsurukichi Indigo, 864 Post Street, San Francisco, (415) 292.5550, features the artisanal creations of designer, Matt Dick. He works with fabrics hand dyed at a centuries-old factory in Japan, where the ancient art of indigo brings out intricate patterns in shades from robin’s-egg to deepest black-navy. The tiny shop has hand dyed and printed textiles, clothing and accessories. www.indigojapan.com

Eco Citizen is a green boutique on Russian Hill at 1488 Vallejo, (415) 614-0100, offering high quality, classic styles that are largely organic and conform to fair-trade and labor practices. Linda Loudermilk, Del Forte jeans, and Noon Solar handbags can be found there. Jewelry is either vintage or created from found and recycled materials, i.e. laser cut recycled wood necklaces. Brazilian-made Melissa shoes are made from recycled rubber. For each pair of Tom shoes that you buy, they give a pair away to a child in need. Vega makes eco sneakers that you can bring back to the store for recycling. Other brands include Turk & Taylor, Stewart+Brown, Zooey tees, John Patrick, and Edun. There is a small selection for men as well. www.ecocitizenonline.com

This spring, Banana Republic introduced an eco collection of 50 pieces that incorporated bamboo, organic Turkish cotton and linen, and soy-silk blends into clean-cut basics. The collection included a cream trench coat, high waist trousers, caftans and a signature bamboo stalk print. www.bananarepublic.com

Wildlife Works, 1849 Union Street, (415) 738-8544, was founded in San Francisco in 1997. They use the proceeds of their product sales to save endangered and threatened wildlife around the globe. www.wildlifeworks.com

The following are some eco websites for additional resources.

ECO WEBSITES
www.treehugger.com

www.thegreenloop.com

www.whiteapricot.com

www.tobi.com
     
www.luckymag.com/sites/sourcebook/eco/eco_guide

www.envirosax.com

www.ashleywatson.com

We need no longer feel like we are sacrificing style to feel virtuous about fashion. Stylish dressing can include distinctive, high quality design and ethical sustainable production. Staying abreast of fashion creates a cycle of getting rid of things that are dated, then shopping and replacing them with new things, thereby setting up an inherent tension between style and sustainability. Recycling clothing to non-profits or consigning current styles, not to mention vintage shopping are all worthy ways to be green! Eco consciousness is becoming a way of life and not merely a cause. We can positively impact the push toward ecologically sensitive alternatives that look great!

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Spring 2008: Trends for Thin Wallets

The trends for Spring 2008 speak to an optimism sadly lacking in our contracting economy. With shrinking budgets in mind, I’d like to offer some ideas to update your wardrobe without spending a small fortune. Get acquainted and conversant with the new trends so your eye can pick out the trends in less expensive translations.

COLOR is what the season demands. How to spice up all that black and neutrals?

• Neon bright accessories are a quick color pickup and can be easily paired with other bangles for a spot of color. I chanced upon a stash of bright enamel bracelets at Old Navy when they were 40% off and I’ve seen others at Banana Republic and J. Crew.
• Many shoe stores feature inexpensive flats, sandals, and heels in very bright patent leather. Worn with cropped pants, white slacks, or a dress from seasons past, bright shoes inject some fun into your outfit.
• A colorful patent leather clutch or handbag is another quick color fix.
• In the Bay Area, we always need a wrap or outer piece. Instead of a black sweater, opt for a cropped cardigan in a bright color. It will transform that rather basic black outfit into something special!
• Add some color under shirts and jacket with bright color tee shirts and tank tops.

PRINTS & PATTERNS can be a conundrum. How much to bring in? How big the print or pattern? How not to look too twee? The usual rule of thumb is small frame, small prints and vice versa. But it depends on your level of confidence and style. Keep in mind that a dramatic print or pattern will bring attention to that part of your body. Hmm, can my bottom half can take that much scrutiny? Trust your instincts in not going overboard.

• You may want to eschew florals for the body, but try incorporating florals into your shoes or a handbag.
• Bold tribal patterns on bangle bracelets stacked up your arm are a way to introduce patterns to an outfit without overwhelming your frame.
• Color blocks are a way to introduce pattern as well as color into a monochromatic, simple wardrobe.
• Ombre and degrade are this season’s update of that tie-dye look from the sixties and can look smashing on a scarf, as well as in patent leather handbags and shoes to great effect.
• Just a simple pairing of black and white gives off a strong graphic pattern and is always in style. The Gap’s newest designer campaign offers a slew of white tops in current styles that can easily freshen up older pieces.

SAFARI inspired pieces are perfect for those who say bah humbug to color and love the palette of the desert. This look begs for bold accessorizing, which can be achieved with less expensive pieces for big impact. Add some animal prints to contrast with the neutrals, perhaps in a scarf, shoe or belt. Add a large, tribal necklace of beads or semi-precious stones. Nothing need be expensive, but it must be stylish.

SCARVES are one of my favorite ways to up the style quotient on an outfit without breaking the bank. I’ve found some amazing and inexpensive scarves in one of those Asian import places that are ubiquitous in Berkeley. There are a myriad ways to make a scarf work for you. I wore a bright blue scarf on a 2 week trip abroad with all black. The colored scarf insured I didn’t just disappear in all that black in all the photos and framed my face with some color.

BOLD NECKLACES are another inexpensive way to accessorize with less expensive pieces because faux jewelry and vintage costume jewelry are very current and hip.

Many discount stores and low-priced chains carry the latest trends, so have fun scouting out trends that will work with your body and your lifestyle, knowing they will also fit into your budget!

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Spring 2008 Fashion Trends

Spring trends for 2008 are buoyant and optimistic in their variety, intensity, color, and styling. The look is heavily romantic and as a contrast, the look is also strictly tailored and lean. The silhouette veers from streamlined and relaxed to body conscious as well as flowy. The fun lies in all the creativity on display. The challenge lies in adopting the trends without looking like you’re in costume. So here are some highlights from the runways.

Prints reappear when the weather warms, but this spring distinguishes itself from past seasons in the extravagance of the prints. Shrinking violets may want to sit this season out because the prints are bold, floral, global, tribal, arty, and full of verve!

Floral
Floral patterns can look upholstered and matronly. Thankfully, designers steered away from the dangerous shoals of dowdiness toward the bright waters of chic by creating extreme, streamlined shapes to showcase their saturated prints.

Case in point is Balenciaga’s Ghesquiere, who borrowed ideas for his roses and peonies from the archives. However, he re-imagined them in stiff, sculpted couture fabrics with sharply rounded shoulders, thereby bypassing the softly romantic for creations that had the toughness of armor, with curvilinear topstitching.

In contrast, some designers, like Stella McCartney, utilized diaphanous fabrics in romantic floral prints for airy dresses and jumpsuits.

Dries van Noten took the floral fever to yet another level by creating fabrics with several mixtures of floral prints in bright hues on relaxed, roomy garments with simple lines.

Global
Designers were inspired by countries around the world in their use of strongly graphic African prints and patterns, Ikat prints, Indian prints, and animal prints. Safari styling cropped up once again in shirtdresses and jackets. Look for a cut that is very modern and sophisticated with these tribal prints to avoid looking like an aging hippie from the sixties.

Painterly and Artistic
Designers used fabrics as canvases for an artisanal yet contemporary quality. Dolce and Gabbana displayed hand painted overblown organza ball gowns. Prada’s Art Noveau-ish fantasy tableaus of fairies were hand painted onto tunics and cropped flared pants, as well as onto dresses and skirts. Thakoon exhibited Jackson Pollock-like abstracts prints splashed on his tops and dresses.

Designers used artistic inspired concepts like color blocking, bold geometrics, and tie dye to play with high contrasts in colors and patterns for big visual impact. Some patterns recalled the psychedelic patterns and Op Art from the sixties. The simple yet strong graphics of black and white are always stylish.

Ruffles, bows, and feathers on dresses and jackets evoked the romanticism that characterized this season. Some were mere decorative accents, but some ruffles played with volume by cascading profusely on eveningwear.

Elegant Minimalism
Every season has its counterpoint. This spring, on the opposite side of the print explosion spectrum, was the look of elegant minimalism. Unlike past seasons, this minimalism is not androgynous but flatters the female form. Designers like Pilati for YSL showed lean, impeccably tailored jackets and trousers, utterly devoid of flourishes and frilliness, but with exaggerated extended shoulders for a modern cut. Calvin Klein showed body conscious dressing that was gentle in its austerity.

Bright colors and neutrals
This spring exploded with bright colors. Jil Sander used two or three shades of neon color as building blocks for combinations high in contrast and saturation.

Going hand in hand with the safari inspired looks were the colors of the desert with neutrals like khaki and bone. Animal prints and ethnic designs favored the richness of a brown palette.

Pair last fall’s gray with this season’s neon brights for a colorful transition into the vibrancy of spring.

The Dress
You can put to sleep that baby doll dress from last spring and grab a grown up dress this spring.

The shift, as Jackie Kennedy knew, is eternally chic and with a little jacket, offers such a simple alternative to a business suit. Marni, Jil Sander, and Philip Lim all explored variations of this classic. In a shockingly bright color or with interesting details like a pleated or metallic lace bodice, the shift denies being too prim and proper. Be careful to keep the length above or at the knee.

Full skirted, calf length dresses recalled the fifties, with the highlight on the waist, such as those which came down the runway of Donna Karan.

Shirtdresses are another perennial favorite, flattering for so many and easy to wear. This season offers many choices. Stella McCartney’s unstructured, capacious ones showed great ease. Others spotlighted the waist, cinched with belts. Long evening shirtdresses like ones by Ferragamo or the soft drapey neutral ones from Bottega Veneta proved that shirtdresses do not need to be predictable. Update a shirtdress with a new belt, like a thin metallic one or a wider belt with embellished details. Belts are still a must have accessory with the focus still on the waist.

Designers played with Grecian draping for another popular look on the runways. Lanvin’s sinuously draped diagonals exemplified the goddess look. The asymmetry of a one shoulder dress like one by Philip Lim provides forgiveness in shape, fluidity in drape, and accentuates the neckline for a modestly bare but sexy look.

Transparency
Transparent fabrics such as gauze, chiffon, tulle and organza were shown layered over exposed undergarments for the runways. Designers also showed how this look could translate to street wear by layering over form fitting outfits for a veiling effect, with an illusion of bareness. Jil Sander showed layers of tulle or gossamer silk over jackets for a much more wearable concept. Narciso Rodriquez’s veiling of black chiffon over simple lavender silk dresses demonstrated a reasonable way to introduce transparency into your wardrobe. Marc Jacobs played with the idea of transparency by inserting sheer panels into the waist of cashmere sweaters. Other designers used sheer inserts for peek-a-boo effects in blouses and dresses. Sheer trench coats were another manifestation of this trend.

Hemlines
With skirts and dresses in full play, so are the hemlines. There were mini skirts that looked like the sixties. There were at the knee full skirted dresses from the fifties. There were calf-grazing and ankle-grazing full skirts as well. So it’s up to you.

Pants
The focus for spring was on dresses and skirts, but pants continued to be high waisted and wide legged, as well as flowey and drapey.

Trench coats are a tried a true staple each spring, so if you’ve already got a black one, try one in a vibrant hue.

Accessories
This season is anything but basic, so make your accessories sing. Big statement necklaces are the big trend in jewelry and in keeping with the boldness of the season. Vivid colors in accessories like shoes, handbags, and belts echoed the riot of colors on display this spring. Metallics continue to be important as an accent. In shoes, expect to see a lot of gladiator sandals, wedges, wooden platforms, sculpted heels, open-toe booties, floral prints, and patent leather, especially in a bright color.

Most of us have a basic black handbag, so this season, make your handbag colorful or patent leather or both.

Conclusion:
The look for spring celebrates womanliness, whether patterned or spare, ruffly or tailored, romantic or minimalist. Here’s hoping the trends spark your creativity into a singular mix that is unique and stylish! Have fun with this full panoply of choices.

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Fall 2007 Fashion Trends

At the onset of each season, we comb the collections for cues that define that season. This fall season rewarded our patience with designers seemingly responsive to our pleas for the wearable instead of the theatrical, the classic instead of the frou frou. The overall silhouette for fall is polished and ladylike with body conscious tailoring and a subtext of sexiness that never veers to the vulgar. Fall’s direction towards sculpted sophistication translates to an easy modernism that seems fresh. It’s about time, you say?

Nicholas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga was responsible for a couple of influential trends for fall. He showcased tight, preppy piped blazers with peaked shoulders and introduced a new pant, the jodhpur. It is unclear if anyone other than a stick or an equestrian can carry off jodhpurs. Fortunately, there are other choices in pants. Applaud the return of the more forgiving and flattering wide legged, sometimes pleated, high waisted trouser pants, circa Katharine Hepburn. This is the big news in denim jeans as well. How to wear them without looking like a stump?  Pair with a slim top or cropped jacket and chunky heel or platform pump. If worn with stiletto heels, choose the pointy toe rather than the rounded ones from past season. Be sure to add a structured handbag and you’re set. While the dress was the important piece for spring and summer, pants will be your workhorses for the fall.

The menswear look was everywhere on the runways from slim, stringently tailored suits to slouchy, pleated trouser suits. However, this is not the season for severe masculinity. There is a fierce femininity pervading all that menswear tailoring, especially when paired with soft, billowy, bowed blouses.

The jacket is always an important finishing piece, even more so this season with the emphasis on polish. Disheveled is not desired. Jackets are tailored and narrow and have interest in the sleeves, sometimes with more volume, or a shorter three-quarter-length.

Designers dipped into their box of Crayolas to play with vibrant color, a carryover from the neons of summer. Cobalt blue, bright orange, lime green, fuchsia, and purple are resurgent. Paired with neutrals like black and camel, the bright hues seem right once again and not warmed over from the 1980s. If the thought of head to toe Crayola bright is scary, just add some colorful accessories instead.

Gray is on the other end of the color spectrum from the brights and is the big neutral in the news for fall. Gray is the perfect backdrop for all those bright colors and can also be worn tonally for an elegant look. With so many shades of gray, from palest dove to deepest charcoal, there is certain to be one that flatters. Designers introduced lots of textures and inventive fabric treatments to show that black is hardly boring. Donna Karan was inspired by the New York City night in her shimmery and textures. In evidence were black fabrics and designs that were heavily sequined, ruffled, beaded, ruched, quilted, and shot with Lurex. Paired with brights and metallics and deeper colors like navy, black took on another character altogether.

Embellishments appeared in the form of feathers and sequins, and shine in the form of patent leather for everything from coats to accessories. Fabrics were soft and fuzzy like alpaca, mohair, angora, and were often brightened with pops of color. Fabrics were also sculpted to the body with origami pleating in dresses, gowns, and skirts. Leathers were softly tailored.

After flirting with baby dolls and trapeze dresses, designers focused on the waist for fall. Belts were wide, corseted, and decorated and thrown on over coats, blazers, blouses, skirts, and dresses. If a wide belt cuts you wrong, a narrow one works as an accent too. Belts helped achieve that lean, more body conscious look designers sought for fall.

Volume was more controlled for fall and appeared in the shoulders and sleeves of dresses, jackets, and blouses. Sleeves were sometimes gathered, poufy, barrel shaped and often shorter in length. Lanvin exemplified this trend with bright dresses balanced by huge shoulders and sleeves. Stella McCartney showed oversized cardigans with padded exaggerated shoulders.

Knits are always welcome additions to a wardrobe and if thick enough, mold to the body without being too revealing. Knit dresses, tunics and cardigans were chunky and bulky as well as thin and textured. A sweater coat was a chic alternative to a fabric coat. Longer cardigans were perfect for layering and a great transitional piece. This fall’s layering was distinguished from prior seasons, which piled on the volume. Layering was more refined with thinner, fewer layers.

The bubble appeared to have burst in skirts. The replacement was that perennial classic, the pencil skirt, much loved for its unfailing versatility. This season, the waist was higher and the length was at the knee or lower. Paired with a wide belt, the pencil skirt delivered a body conscious look with modern sex appeal. The fuller, flared skirt at knee length provided another look.

Dresses, while ceding center stage to pants, were still important for fall. Balenciaga’s dresses in boldly divergent ethnic prints with patterned scarves sent a global bohemian vibe. Dior continued a 1940’s theme from past seasons with draping and extended shoulders for that movie style glamour. The shift dress came in many Jackie O like iterations. A great transition piece from summer to fall, the shift can be layered with long sleeved shirts, cardigans, and jackets. As with the pencil skirt, keep the hemline to the knee or below for that retro appeal. Retire those minis and baby dolls this season.

Statement coats were once again important for the fall with a welter of choices and colors. Coats came with belts, exaggerated collars, and funnel necks, in electric hues as well as neutrals. Coats came heavily textured in mohair and shiny in patent leather. Coats ranged from the classic, like pea coats and trenches to capes and unique shapes like a cocoon.

For shoes this season, look for the oxford wingtip lace-up pump, some with peep toes, for an instant update to an outfit. Booties carried over from last fall. Flats were still with us, thank goodness, and came with buckles, bows, studs, and rosettes. If you bought the flat boot several seasons ago, give yourself a pat on the back for a good investment. This fall the flat boot has a 60’s Courreges inspired look. The pointy toed, high heeled pump is pushing aside the round toed pump for fall. Banana heels, Mary Janes, and covered platforms were the new look in pumps. In bright primary colors and patent leather, fashion pumps added that jolt of color to grays and blacks. Be sure to pair them with opaque tights. A covered leg was very important for finishing that look, as were gloves and hats.

Exotic skins, especially crocodile, in structured handbags and oversized envelope clutches remained a fall staple. The cuff bracelet was once again big for the fall, as were chunky statement necklaces.

As with every season, the secret to style is in the mix and in the choices. Which are the key pieces? How to incorporate pieces from prior seasons, add new pieces from this season and achieve fresh pairings that look current and unique for both you and your clients? How to achieve a sense of unity and harmony that speaks to polish and sophistication? Some past seasons seemed to require a style handbook with instructions to interpret the trends. This fall, no navigational tools are necessary. Who needs the overwrought and the over designed when simplicity and elegance are available? There is much to celebrate this fall! There is shape, texture, shine, color, glamour, propriety, polish and sophistication, with choices for everyone!

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Spring 2007 Fashion Trends

For spring 2007, the prominent trends follow several divergent themes:  the Futuristic, the Nostalgic, the Sporty, and the Romantic. The dress continues to be the essential piece for your spring wardrobe, with white and metallics important colors and materials to incorporate when updating.

The Futuristic
The Back to the Future trend was best exemplified by Ghesquiere for Balenciaga.  Ignoring the past, Ghesquiere drew inspiration from science fiction movies like “Tron” and “The Terminator,” as well as car parts and droids to design what he terms, “robotic articulation.” Leggings embroidered from tiny pieces of copper paired with a stiff leather vest looked like something to delight a robot. A cobalt blue dress of patent leather and mesh looked very android friendly. Other designers showed futuristic type high-tech fabrics and materials, as well as lots of silver and white for a type of space odyssey chic. We’ll see how this futuristic look gets interpreted for those of us living in the present. Nevertheless, Balenciaga is defining a very strong silhouette for spring that is severe, boyish, and elongated, and devoid of the bubble shapes he loved for fall.

The Nostalgic
If cyborg dressing does not figure into your spring wardrobe, you can wax nostalgic for other eras this spring. Prada hearkened back to the ‘40s for inspiration and showed day dresses with cinched in waists and either strong shoulders or softer dolman sleeves and turbans on the heads of the models. Other designers stole minis and shift dresses from the ‘60s to re-interpret the look with strong graphics inspired by Cubism and Bauhaus in big bold patterns and bright colors. While this spring is not as bohemian as in past years, the influence of the ‘70s can be seen in the fringe handbags, floral dresses, embroidery, wedge heels, and earth-tone accessories seen on the runways. Some designers channeled the ‘80s for a strong silhouette that was slim and sexy, with fluorescent colors. Dolce and Gabbana called their collection “Sexy Glam,” inspired by heroines of Japanese cartoons. The tight, shiny outfits and big tops over tight bottoms were reminiscent of the ‘80s disco scene.

The Sporty
Another important theme this spring was an Olympian one, as designers took active wear to new heights for street wear. Gaultier showed embroidered satin jackets; Donna Karan’s team jerseys were sequined; Dries Van Noten’s citrus colored silk windbreakers were shown with striped track pants and high heeled sneakers. The look may be sporty but designers had fun mixing things up with fancy fabrics for their parkas and anoraks.

The Romantic
Romanticism is another strong theme this season. Florals were not just confined to prints but burst into sculptural, three dimensional bloom on dresses, coats and jackets. Thakoon was inspired by the peony and created feminine dresses with sleeves that looked like blossoms. Rodarte’s structured dresses with volume were freely decorated with 3-D flowers. Marc Jacobs, still enamored of layering, evoked romanticism in the choice of a soft neutral color palette of creams, whites, and grays in gauzy, airy fabrics. The fuller sleeve from fall flows into the spring. Coats, jackets and blouses have fully gathered sleeves at the elbows and wrists instead of the shoulders for a romantic touch. Feminine blouses with rounded sleeves or lots of gathers and volume continue to be an important look.

Spring’s Silhouette
There are two major silhouettes for spring. The first is the narrow and lean, as shown by Balenciaga. Pants continue to be slim and straight, though be on the lookout for wide-legged, high waist pants and jeans, which promise to be making a comeback. Was that a collective cheer I heard? Leggings look to be on the wane and did not figure as prominently among the designers. Was that another cheer?

The second silhouette echoes past seasons’ emphasis on volume. However, this spring, the bubble hem has burst with designers swinging toward the trapeze shape in dresses, coats, and jackets. Jackets tend to the cropped and flared and are paired with skinny pants for a strong angular silhouette. Proportion in dressing is always an imperative but particularly important this spring to achieve the correct balance.

The Importance of the Dress
The dress gets the award for best repeat performance by a trend. It was important last spring and re-asserts its dominance this spring. Isn’t there something so liberating about throwing on a dress and not worrying about coordinating all those pieces? So, forget the pantsuits and separates and build a wardrobe of dresses instead. There are a variety of styles and shapes from which to choose, from the baby doll to the shirtwaist. Designers seem smitten with the gamine, with hemlines above the knee for most dresses. The enduring vitality of the dress must be related to the theme of romanticism seen throughout the collections. The dresses on the runways were ornate, feminine, filled with flowers and lace. Easy swinging dresses appeared in airy chiffons and tulles but also in heavier couture fabrics like duchess satins and brocades. The easy shapes accommodate many body types. If an above the knee dress is not suitable, choose a trapeze top and pair with skinny pants to show off the geometry of the look. Boots, heels, and a belt are important accessories with the magical ability to completely change the look of a dress. A proper spring coat over the dress gives you such a polished and pulled together look.

Accessories
The waist continues to command attention this spring. Belts are essential to cinch in the volume in so many of the outfits and range from the narrow to the wide. Some belts are as wide as corsets.

The clutch is back as a fresh and lighter alternative to the oversize tote that reappears each season. Silver handbags picked up that Futuristic trend, as did Lucite necklaces.

Cuff bracelets are big for spring.

Flat sandals and shoes seem so right with the trapeze dresses and skinny pants. Wedges, chunky heels and platforms continue to be necessary to ground those airy looks and shorter hemlines. Some designers carved out platforms and wedges to impart a sculptural quality to heels. This spring, you will note the squared off toe as a fresh look in shoe wear.

Patent leather is especially prominent this spring, not only in black but in vibrant colors, and not only in accessories but in clothing as well.

Spring Colors
White is the color for spring, emblematic of freshness and innocence, as well as femininity. Paired with black, the combination becomes quite graphic and strong. Yellow is another welcome spring color, particularly joyful when paired with white. Cobalt blue adds a bright jolt of color, but look out for pale, softer neutrals as well. Metallics, especially silver, are an important element for achieving that futuristic theme. Sequins, Swarovski crystals, mirror decorations and high tech fabrics with sheen were everywhere as well.

Designers had fun with some high concepts in trends. While we can appreciate the conceptual, women seek the wearable. Let’s hope that the promise of spring brings not only daffodils but wearable interpretations of these trends in the stores.

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Fall 2006 Fashion Trends

Runway shows set the trends for each season but are often designed to shock and awe, playing up the dramatic and theatrical rather than the practical and wearable. Some outfits on the runways should have come with the warning: “Don’t try this at home or on the street. Expert supervision required!” Peeking beyond the specifics of the theater of the catwalk, we focus on the themes and the silhouette. The theme for this fall is somber and sober, hence the pre-eminence of black. The silhouette for fall is full and abundant with lots of layers and volume. The narrow and the lean exist as a contrasting silhouette. What does it all mean? This fall season is like a dense, complex manuscript, with the analysis of meaning open to many layers of interpretation. Analyzing and discerning the layers of interpretation of the fall trends is the key to unlocking the looks of the season.

Layering is the buzzword for fall. Marc Jacobs, true to his rebellious roots from his grunge days of the 1990s, ushered in layering but interpreted as more urban chic than grunge this time around. He showed a fur jacket over a sweater worn over a dress, over leggings or pants, layered with leg warmers and tucked into boots. Some designers even put one coat over another coat. All designers piled on the multiples of layers. Accessories such as mufflers, gloves, hoods and caps only added to the cover up.

Interpretation: The runways took this idea to its extreme; achieve the layered effect with fewer layers in lighter fabrics, like sheer cashmere, tulle, wool jersey, and lightweight knits. Layer a vest over a feminine blouse, topped off with a cardigan or a sweater coat over a narrow pant finished off with boots. Jumpers are back and layered over turtlenecks or long sleeved tee shirts, serve as nice transitions into cooler weather. By the same token, that summer frock can be layered over long sleeved tees and turtlenecks, with a sweater coat, leggings and boots to segue into fall. The goal is to suggest lots of layers without losing sight of the body under it all.

Volume is reflected in the silhouette for fall, a natural consequence of all that layering. One of the most dramatic interpretations of volume was the re-introduction by Nicolas Ghesquiere of classics from the Balenciaga archives: the egg and barrel shape in coats and jackets, the big peplum on jackets, heavily pleated mini skirts, and exaggerated bubble skirts. Designers also played with volume in trapeze shapes, and big, boxy cropped jackets. Volume can be found in the sleeves of blouses and jackets, with designers showing the poet sleeve, the bell sleeve, the puff sleeve, and the bishop sleeve. Skirts continue to be full with the bubble hem especially prominent. In dresses, the mini, the shift, the trapeze dress, the smock and the blouson dress recall the 60s and have the requisite volume falling away from the body.

Interpretation: This is the season to be mindful of proportions. With volume on the top, say a boxy, cropped, jacket, balance it with something narrow on the bottom like a pencil skirt or slim pants. With volume on the bottom, like a bubble skirt or full skirt or baggy pants, keep the top close to the body. Use a wide belt at the waist to control the volume in coats, jackets, and sweaters. You can choose volume in the sleeves of blouses while everything else is tailored and narrow. For more shape, choose a dress with a cinched in waist. The goal is to achieve fall’s dramatic new silhouette, while balancing your individual proportions.

The Narrow and the Lean is also an important silhouette for fall. Legs narrow on all pants and yes, it’s true, leggings are back! Yes, it’s also true, leggings are not for everyone. However, leggings can’t be ignored as a trend when just about every designer showed them on the runways and they have hit the streets. The key to wearing leggings is to recite the following: leggings are not pants! Wear them as a layer, under long tunics, long cardigans and sweater dresses. However you wear them, it is mandatory to cover up the bottom. Narrow legged jeans can stand in for leggings as a layering piece or they can be worn tucked into slouchy boots or layered with leg warmers. Slim pantsuits with exquisite tailoring are a foolproof way to do the narrow and the lean.

Of course, there is the contrast of the baggy and the slouchy in pants for a relaxed, menswear look. Just keep the top fitted and slim.

Interpretation: Leggings are distinguished from the 1980s by being worn with a higher level of sophistication and polish under dressier pieces. To avoid truncating your legs, wear black opaque tights instead of leggings. Stovepipe trousers or straight legs pants can be another flattering choice to achieve the narrow and lean.

Knits comprise an essential key to layering, with many choices in patterns, styles, designs, and weight. Sweater coats are an updated alternative to cloth or leather coats. Bulky, chunky sweaters can be replacements for a blazer or jacket. The boyfriend sweater returns. Sweater dresses, tunics and long cardigans are important layering pieces over slim bottoms.

Capes are hot for fall and come in all lengths and in all fabrics and knits. The trench and the pea coat return as classics but interpreted with more volume and to accommodate what is going on underneath. The maxi coat is back. Coats and jackets were military inspired, some with heavy embroidery, brass buttons and belts. Dolce and Gabbana’s coats were Napoleonic in details.

Interpretation: Paying attention to proportion in a cape will pay off in finding the right length to avoid looking like a superhero. Some capes gave definition to the waist with thin belts. The cape can be an elegant evening look in a refined fabric. Big coats were shown belted to decrease the silhouette.

Fabrics for the fall showed some carryover from last fall. Tartans and plaids are especially big this season, and Alexander McQueen loved playing with their patterns, while other designers layered plaids on plaids. Lauren even showed plaids for evening gowns. Fabrics such as velvet, jacquards, brocades, lace, and satins communicated the richness of the season. Metallics proved their lasting power by showing up once again in everything from clothing to accessories. Last fall the trend was toward the baroque and the embellished. This fall, there is less sparkly embellishment. Instead, designers added elements and details on clothing in the same colors to create more of a dimensional feeling in decoration rather than glitzy. Gone are the folkloric embroidery or studs and grommets of past seasons. Fur is always on the runways and was heavily utilized as trim for coats and jackets, as well as in accessories such as hats, boots, and scarves

Accessories are particularly important in this season of large, dramatic proportions. With all this volume and layering, shoes and boots need the heft and weightiness of platforms, stacked heels, and wedges. Louis Vuitton showed cut out heels on boots and pumps for dramatic effect. Toes continue to be round. The bootie, the shoe of the season, hits just under or right above the ankle in a variety of skins and colors, decorated with buckles, laces, or straps. Paired with black leggings or black tights, the bootie seems just the right finish for skirts, dresses, as well as pants. The high heels and platforms elongate the proportions, but flats continue their popularity, looking snappy with curve hugging jeans and leggings.

It’s no surprise that oversized handbags echo the volume of the clothes. Belts serve to cinch in some of that ubiquitous volume, worn at the waist, not low slung on the hips as in past seasons. Gloves help to cover up arms in shorter sleeves.

Black was the color of choice for designers, though red was shown in gorgeous evening gowns and dresses. Purple and jewel tones are also the colors for fall, reflecting the darker palette. If black is not your color, choose other neutrals such as browns, camels, and navy.

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Spring 2006 Fashion Trends

While the outfits for fall 2005 seemed to tell a story, what I called “narrative chic,” the trends for spring 2006 speak to an easy co-existence of contradictions: minimalism and frothy, voluminous and skinny, earth tones and intense colors, high heeled and flat. There’s something for everyone this spring!

The imperative for spring: Get thee a dress! (Preferably white). The Little White Dress is emblematic of a major theme for the spring season: clean and crisp. The silhouette for the dress is voluminous and loose, falling away from the body, either with or without an empire waist. Dresses are rich in detailing, with delicate pin tucks, and an abundance of bows, ribbons and lace. In sum, dresses exude an air of supercharged femininity. Chloe featured floaty baby doll dresses that recalled the 1960’s, with pleating and pearly appliqués. This being a season of contradictions, the other dress silhouette is slim and lean. Dolce and Gabbana showed white eyelet sheath dresses and lacy corset dresses that appeared innocent, with a subtext of sensuality. Taking the little dress even farther, Donna Karan intended coats and jackets to be worn as dresses. Donna Karan introduced yet another silhouette in her dresses and coat, which she calls a free-fall back. The front is cinched with a wide sash, but the back is left free to cocoon against the body.

In counterpoint to the frothy and the feminine, pantsuits make a strong statement of minimalism. In this season’s incarnation, the pantsuit is less businesslike than in prior seasons and definitely not the power suits from the 1980’s. The pantsuit is a bit looser and unstructured and feels thoroughly modern, clean, and polished, as interpreted by Rochas. Some pantsuits have slim, cropped pants, some have baggy, slouchy pants, and some are paired with very skinny stovepipe pants. In this contrapuntal season, Balenciaga’s rock star interpretation of the pantsuit was baroque, fashioned in rich brocades and lace, full of furbelows and frills. The pantsuits from YSL have a flamenco appeal, with bolero jackets and tight, cropped trousers finished off with pompons.

Jackets this spring are cut close to the body, or are cropped and fall away from the body. The news in jackets rested in the shoulders. Designers strived for a leaner line with peaked shoulders, as seen in Gucci and Balenciaga.

This is the season for a statement coat. The trench coat re-emerges each season as a perennial classic due to its iconic shape, which allows designers to give it their own aesthetic imprimatur. The new designer, Tao for Comme des Garcons, crafted a feminine trench from vintage doilies and handkerchiefs. Burberry included a 1960’s inspired bubble brocade coat for evening. The A-line coat with a 60’s swing to it was another important shape for spring, as envisioned by Marc Jacobs.

Pants reflect two opposing silhouettes this spring: slouchy and baggy with volume, or body-hugging and slim. Michael Kors showed a wide legged, cropped style, with a gaucho look. City shorts were again on the runways but have made little impact in the bay area.

For skirts, designers continue to play with volume. The bubble skirt is the new silhouette for this spring. Pencil skirts are a classic and this season are shown with high waists.

Each spring ushers in some variation of the bohemian. This spring the trend is toward a bit more sophistication and simplicity. Rather than peasant, the designers showcased the artisanal. Clothes feature decorative handiwork, like intricate ribbon and trim work. Prada’s dresses have an arts-and-crafts texture, trimmed in seashells and beads. Some dresses are vintage inspired. Lace is everywhere, as is eyelet. Cardigans and sweaters are in crotchet knits and look hand loomed. Beware of piling it on or you may look like you overindulged at the flea market.

A short editorial comment: The Western look carries over into the spring, but is so overdone that I would suggest turning to other trends for relief.

For this spring, the focus is on the waist. Hence, the most important accessory this spring is the belt. Belts have migrated upward from being slung low on the hips to sitting right at the waist. The wide belt is the most fashion forward item to own and can be added to just about any look from the bohemian to the boardroom. A medium width belt is a classic and can be used as the finishing touch to pants, skirts, or cardigans. A skinny belt is perfect for waist emphasis on high-waist pants or skirts, sweaters, or oversize tee shirts.

Retire those skinny stiletto heels, which are not substantial enough for this spring’s look. The de rigueur shoes for spring sport a high, chunky heel, a wedge heel, or a platform sole. All have a heft and weight in their soles and heels to better ground those ethereal, feminine outfits. The toes continue to be rounded, as well as peep-toed for a retro look. Woven sandals like Michael Kors’ high heel dark brown huarache offset the whites and pale neutrals of the season. This season of opposites means the other important shoe for the spring is the flat sandal, some with ankle ties for a Grecian flair, others adorned with gemstones and beads.

Handbags are oversized and counterbalance the volume of some of the clothes. The slouchy hobo shape enjoys continued popularity.

Look for patent leather and reptile skins in neon colors in shoes, belts, and handbags, to brighten up any outfit on those rainy spring days. Metallics continue to be strong this season in all accessories as well as clothes.

I wanted to insert a quick word about color. According to Pantone, which surveys designers from Fashion Week to compile each season’s important trends in color, the inspirations for spring 2006 were the beach, the desert, and organic materials. The result is a more muted palette, after many seasons of riotous colors. There is a soft neutral called Sand Dollar and a warm brown called Clove. Pink makes a comeback with Cameo Pink. The most intense blue in the palette is called Deep Ultramarine, and lighter blues and greens are also part of the season’s color trends. Black and white appears each spring as a graphic classic.

Whereas the color palette may be toned down, the prints were pumped up. Prints ranged from bold African inspired graphics and bright 60’s psychedelics to Japanese looking tie dyed from Dries van Noten and overblown florals from Valentino.

The white shirt and the shirtdress are spring classics and re-appear this spring.

In an apparent nod to the movie, “Memoirs of a Geisha,” some designers incorporated an Asian feel to kimono wrapped dresses and tops and cinched in waists with large obi-like sashes.

In conclusion, I would suggest focusing on four things for a quick spring update: the color white, the waist, the dress, and the chunky heel. Remember to subvert the saccharine or staid with something edgier, tone down the too trendy, and eschew the too ubiquitous. We help our clients complement their own distinctive look with the current trends that says updated and modern. Wonderful choices abound, so have fun this spring!

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Fall 2005 Fashion Trends

If you have ever yearned to dress like a heroine in a period drama, you will welcome the trends for Fall 2005. You can aspire to what I will call “narrative chic,” with outfits that seem to have their own story lines evocative of other eras. Thus, you can dress like Lara from Dr. Zhivago, or a Henry James belle from the Belle Époque, or an Edwardian lady straight out of Bloomsbury, or Grace Kelly in a tailored suit. For inspiration, designers have boldly borrowed from the past, from films, from global traditions to create an overall look for fall of opulence and richness, of elegance and femininity.

This fall’s theme of opulence is reflected in the importance of fabrics such as damask, brocade, jacquard, velvet, and Metallics. Searching for a replacement of last fall’s love affair with tweed, designers looked to interior design and decorative arts for inspiration, turning to textiles that recall Scarlett O’Hara’s resourcefulness in making clothing from curtains. A brocade or velvet jacketor a full skirt from damask are ways to integrate this trend into your wardrobe. In fact, the jacket remains an essential piece for any wardrobe. Jackets can be military inspired, luxurious in metallic or damask, embroidered, trimmed in fur, belted or boxy.

Fall’s silhouette amplifies spring’s trend toward volume, with shapes that are round, soft, and full. The silhouettefor fallcelebrates the hourglass figure, with an accent on the waist. Belts and corsets cinch in the volume to achieve the desired hourglass shape. Meanwhile, other designers bypass the waist entirely, focusing instead upon the empire waist in dresses and tops.

The tulip skirt is the most noteworthy shape for the fall. This resurrected shape is in essence a marriage of the full skirt of the spring with the pencil skirt of last fall, high on the stomach and rounded in the hips. Pay attention to proportion, the skirt no longer than knee length, topped with something fitted and sleek. The tulip skirt can be dressed down with a chunky sweater and boots or made cocktail party- worthy with a velvet jacket and pumps. If eschewing this new shape, you have many other choices in full and circle skirts and long, sweeping skirts because women have come to love skirts.

Following this trend toward volume are slouchy, baggier pants, with higher waists.  Yes, some even have pleats! Before you recycle those pleated, tapered pants from the archives, be aware that these have been reinterpreted with the implicit promise of being more flattering. As a reminder that fashion thrives on duality, pants are also skinny, straight legged and even skin tight. 

The fashion world announced with great fanfare that black is a strong trend this fall, after years of extolling the virtues of color. In fact, we all know that black is not a trend but a classic. However, this season’s black is far from basic. Silhouettes are Victorian and heavily embellished or lean and minimalist. Black is styled with high sophistication and polish in suits that evoke Hitchcock heroines and can even be ecclesiastical, as interpreted by YSL. Black can be edgy and a bit nightmarish, as shown in gowns and outfits by Marc Jacobs, who confessed to being inspired by Violet from the film, The Incredibles. So, for those who have always embraced black, this season promises many more choices in the color of choice.

Embellishments provide the leitmotif through all the collections. The luxe bohemian look, a carryover from the spring, arrives for the fall with a darker palette and a refined glamour. Folkloric embroidery conveys old world charm and adorns everything from jeans to jackets, from tee shirts to shoes. Decorative embroidery on leather and velvet coats and jackets bring to mind the Russian aristocracy. Black rosettes appear on everything. The ubiquity of studs and grommets gives “street cred” to clothing and accessories, as shown in the dresses and accessories by Prada and the studded jeans of Dolce and Gabbana...

Lace, ruffles, and pin tucks lend this season’s blouse a Victorian charm. Usually high-necked, sometimes with leg-of-mutton sleeves, often sheer, the blouse can be paired with tailored pieces from previous seasons for a quick update, as well as for a masculine-feminine contradiction.

This is the season to invest in a dramatic coat, with myriad choices in black as well as rich fabrics like brocades. Military coats with buttons and epaulets, large lapels and slim lines are also marching into the fall. If you are looking for a classic, the trench and the pea coat are winners. For a retro touch, look for a swing coat.

This fall, shearling is everywhere, in coats, jackets, vests, bags, boots, and as trim.

In knits, the look for the fall is slim sweaters, belted at the waist, and long chunky cardigans or sweater coats, belted at the waist.

Accessories are key this season to add punch and polish to fall trends. Necklaces are long, layered, and black, with jet and black agate, as well as oversized and chunky. The cuff bracelet accents wrists.

In handbags, the frame handbag with hand held handles is reminiscent of the 1950’s. The slouchy hobo and the satchel offer other choices. As in past seasons, crocodile and alligator lend texture and richness to all accessories.

Boots are the most important accessory this fall, to both anchor and finish any look. Boots are round toed with either chunky high heels or wedge heels. As shown by last year’s equestrian boot, there is staying power to the flat boot, which can look mod and very 1960’s in Calvin Klein’s crocodile version. There is even a return to the 1980’s with a slouchy boot. Western boots add a kick to any outfit, particularly a full skirt. To complement the Victorian look, choose the laced granny boot. The bootie is a cross between the ankle boot and a shoe, appearing in many styles, from lace-ups to slip-on loafers.

Pumps are round toed and come with various types of heels:  stacked, cone, or platform. Some have a 1960’s look with squared off toes and buckles and belts for details. Textured and opaque tights complete the look.

Clogs are also proving their popularity this season; some are flat, some with heels and platforms, in suede, as well as embroidered and embellished.

The challenge with each new season is to incorporate the trends to reflect each client’s singular look, for as we know, the secret is all in the mix. We also provide guidance so our clients don’t get lost in their own “narrative chic.”

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Creating a Stylish Maternity Wardrobe :: Fall 2004

When upscale boutiques start adding maternity clothes to their trendy offerings, you might say maternity clothes are “big”.

To get the “skinny” on staying stylish while the middle expands, I interviewed AICI’s own intern, La Toya McInnis, mother of adorable 5 month old son, Khephren, and a student in fashion and image consulting at City College, as well as a fragrance rep for Miyake and Klein. As La Toya notes, “women want to continue to wear the same designers and styles they did before the pregnancy. Even though our bodies change, our fashion tastes don’t.” So why lose your sense of style just because you’ve temporarily lost your waistline? 

What are some core pieces for a maternity wardrobe?
Start with black, which is slimming and easy to accessorize. Be sure to have a pair of black boot cut pants in a stretchy fabric and a pair of drawstring pants. Pair them with a black turtleneck sweater or a wrap sweater. Add a black jersey dress that you can even wear over the pants for an eclectic style. If the dress is sleeveless, you can layer with the turtleneck sweater. Add some fun, colorful tops to this basic core. Instead of a coat or jacket, throw on a poncho. If you must dress more corporate, a black skirt and some button down shirts in white, solids and stripes are great, along with an unstructured jacket or trench coat. 

What are some accessorizing ideas for the core pieces?
Accessorizing is the perfect way to add some color to your basic black core. Pin a brooch or flower pin to your wrap sweater or poncho, or on the collar of your turtleneck. Keep the jewelry small and to a minimum, because you radiate good health and beauty when pregnant, and that should take center stage. Carry a purse in a fun color that goes across your body, but keep it smaller because you’re carrying enough already! You won’t be able to wear heels, so wear ballerina flats and a flat boot, or a tailored flat shoe and a cute pair of sneakers. Comfort is the key.

What are some styles that work?
There are 3 stages to pregnancy. During the first stage, up to about 4 months, you can usually wear your usual clothes, or perhaps a size larger in tops and pants. Peasant tops and tiered chiffony tops are perfect for this in-between stage and need not be maternity.  You can wear your low-rise jeans under your belly with a longer top. 

During the second stage, up to about 5- 6 months, you can’t fit into your clothes and you’re still a bit small for maternity. (Editor’s note: Bella Bands is a seamless knit band that you wear over your unbuttoned pre-maternity pants, or over slightly big maternity pants). Look for an A-line shape in your clothing choices to balance the width in your middle, and tops that are fitted at the bodice, but roomy below.

During the last months of your pregnancy, you’ll need to wear drawstring pants and maternity pants with thin elastic panels or very loose elastic waistbands. A maternity belt that attaches with Velcro right around the waist helps with the weight. Don’t invest in designer maternity jeans, unless you’re planning on being pregnant often! Old Navy carries inexpensive panel jeans. A longer dress is great, but no short dresses, as the bottom hem will ride up in the front. Tee shirts under wrap sweaters or long cardigans are comfortable at this stage. 

What would be your ideal outfit?
My favorite outfit was a long man’s white tank top, with a black wrap cardigan and a pair of maternity pants, either in black or in a color like navy blue or grey. I also loved wearing a full skirt with a long top, fitted in the bodice that had ruching in the tummy area, and ballerina flats.  I also wore a flat boot or a tailored flat shoe. Just remember that color makes you feel like your old self, so be sure to add it to your maternity wardrobe whenever you can.

What are your suggestions for shopping on a budget?
Fortunately, there are stylish clothes available that won’t break the bank. Target carries the Liz Lange collection. Old Navy, Gap.com and J.C. Penny’s carry maternity clothes. Holly Robinson Peete, actress and wife of NFL quarterback, Rodney Peete, has just designed a new line for Mervyn’s. Check maternity consignment shops for bargains.

If you want to splurge a bit, where should you go and what should you buy?
Splurge on a good core wardrobe, like a black jersey dress, good quality shoes and boots, and a great pair of black pants. Liz Lange has a high end collection available online. Pea in the Pod is mid to high range, as is Japanese Weekend Maternity Wear. Mimi Maternity is mid-range. Annie’s has some higher end lines, such as:  Cadeau, Susanna Monaco, Liz Lange, Humanity, Earl Jean. Mom’s the Word has lines such as Olien, Diane von Furstenberg, Notice, Seven jeans, Ripe. (Editor’s note:  Dress on Chestnut St. no longer carries maternity clothes.)

Huge thank you to La Toya for providing valuable and practical advice to keep in mind when helping clients build a stylish maternity wardrobe. I had the extreme pleasure of helping a client do just that. The same principles we use to help clients look their best apply to expectant mothers as well:  build a core wardrobe of flattering styles and buy the best quality you can afford. It’s perhaps even more important that a pregnant woman exudes that easy confidence that comes from knowing she looks her stylish best! 

RESOURCE LIST:

Consignment Shops:
Childs Play Maternity & Consignment
5858 College Ave., Oakland, CA 94618
(510) 653-3989

Outgrown
1417 4th Street, San Raphael, CA 94901
(415) 457-2219

Summerhays Maternity Consignment
2308 Union St., San Francisco, CA 94123

Maternity Shops:

Mom’s the Word
3385 Sacramento St., San Francisco, CA
(415) 441-8261
www.momsthewordmaternity.com

Due Maternity
3112 California St, San Francisco, CA
(415) 674-9854
www.duematernity.com

Annie’s and Maternity at Annie’s
2512 Sacramento Street, San Francisco, CA
(415) 292-7164

Japanese Weekend Maternity Wear
500 Sutter St., San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 989-6667
www.japaneseweekend.com

Mimi Maternity
Several locations: mimimaternity.com

Pea in the Pod
290 Sutter St., San Francisco
(415) 391-1400

Old Navy
801 Market St., San Francisco, CA
(415) 344-0375

Gap
890 Market St
(415) 788-5909
www.gap.com

Online Shopping:
www.Babystyle.com
www.Lizlange.com
www.onehotmamma.com

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Travel in Style :: May 2004

With the approach of summer, travel looms large in most people’s plans. In our fast paced world, we seek solutions, both professionally and personally, that streamline our lives. Most image consultants have their individual systems for coordinating travel wardrobes. With that in mind, I polled consultants and asked them to share their favorite travel tips and resources for comfort, security, and organization.

• A bright colored sticker or other identifier placed on the bottom end of your suitcase makes for ready identification. Diane Parente, learned this trick from a flight attendant. The common trick is to put something bright on the handle, but guess which end comes down the carousel first?
• Diane suggests you carry a pair of those socks provided by airlines on long flights, which are easy to slip on over either bare feet or your regular socks, as you go through security.
• Diane always travels with an inflatable neck pillow for comfort and snoozing. I also place one in the small of my back to relieve the discomfort of those airline seats.
• Scan and save copies of your important documents on a friend’s computer. In the event all your important papers are lost or stolen, Diane notes that you can contact your friend and have the documents emailed or faxed to you anywhere in the world.
• Self-sealing plastic bags have a myriad uses and are the best possible travel item to pack. Diane points out that they can be used for damp bathing suits, safeguarding important papers, packing dirty laundry, and saving the last 6” of your mid-day baguette for later. Amy Roseveare also uses them inflated if her suitcase is not filled. As we all know, shifting contents lead to breakage and wrinkles, so the best thing is to make sure your suitcase is always filled, if not with recent purchases, then with air filled plastic bags! As an alternative packing medium, Micki Turner and Donna Fujii use plastic bags from the dry cleaners and tissue paper.
• Micki visualizes a “sandwich” approach when thinking about what to pack. She starts with the shoes and the jackets, and then the “filling” falls into place.
• Micki’s mantra: shoes, shoes, shoes. They can make or break being comfortable and happy while traveling.
• With tighter carryon restrictions, Micki’s trick is to pack a handbag that can fold into a suitcase and then carry on a bag that is slightly larger than a handbag. She considers this the best rationalization for splurging on a Bottega Veneta bag that is soft and folds easily into your suitcase!
• Bring a simple pair of black pumps for day and in the evening, Donna Fujii suggests they be dressed up with rhinestone clip-ons.
• A jumbo scarf is a must for tropical vacations and cruises. Donna points out it can be used as a bathing suit cover-up, a dress, a top over pants, or a picnic tablecloth!
• Donna suggests packing a hairpiece for evening dress up when you don’t have time to fix your hair. Pull your hair back, pin in the hairpiece, and add decorative hair accessories, such as black chopsticks with rhinestones.
• Amy Roseveare uses a grid to plan what she is packing for each day, as insurance against over packing. She then has a list in case her luggage is lost.
• Amy uses inflatable hangers, which allow the two layers of clothing to dry faster and prevent stretching of delicate knits or jerseys.
• For international travel, Amy has a few valuable reminders: international driver’s license, bilingual language dictionary, copy of your medical and optometry prescriptions, a copy of your passport and wallet contents, plug converter, vaccination card, small flashlight, and extra batteries for your camera.
• “Elastene” is the magic word for the fabric content of your travel wardrobe, according to Colleen Abrie. It washes in the hotel sink and hangs to dry. Colleen says to look for such brands as James Perse, Three Dots, Theory, Petite Bateau, Margaret O’Leary, Banana Republic, and her favorite Parisian brand, Anti Flirt.
• The smallest hair dryer on the planet that actually works is called, “The Baby”. Colleen reports it collapses to approximately 4 inches and sports both hot and cool settings.
• Stock up on “Space Bags” packing bags, available at Bed/Bath and Beyond. Colleen puts her clothes in them and rolls from one end to another. Everything is then compressed to half its previous size. Besides reducing bulk, it protects against spills.
• Don’t bother packing those compact travel umbrellas that invariably fail to protect in blustery weather. Linda Buckman reports from the frontlines of Europe, that most European hotels supply sturdy, full-sized umbrellas for their guests.
• Keep a rotating toiletry kit with refillable mini versions of all your essential products. Linda suggests that your toiletry bag zip open and have sealed compartments, which carry your hand labeled plastic containers. She makes content labels for each toiletry bag, both for a record of what to pack the next time, and to refill products. Colleen also suggests stocking up on travel size versions of favorite hair products, available from beauty supply stores.
• To keep your chains and necklaces from becoming knotted, place each through a wide drinking straw and then store in a plastic toothbrush case.

The following are just a few travel resources:

Karen Snow reports that The Packing Book, by Judith Gilford includes great products and gear to help you travel efficiently, as well checklists and methods to help you pack any kind of bag. Karen notes, “If you're an over packer, this is your passport to lighter bags and easier traveling. You'll never pack too much or forget anything again.” It’s a five star rated book available on Amazon.com

Flight 001 is a fun, stylish boutique in Hayes Valley that carries cosmetics, cute carry-on bags, guidebooks, aromatherapy products, stationery, electronics, and travel accessories. 525 Hayes St. between Octavia and Laguna. (415) 487-1001. www.flight001.com

Amy Roseveare likes Edwards Luggage, which has 4 locations in the bay area. Check out the website for more information and for their online store: www.edwardsluggage.com.

Magellan’s Travel Supplies has practical, well constructed travel accessories, both on their website and through their catalogue. www.magellans.com. (800) 962-4943

I hope these sensible tips and packing principles prove valuable for your next trip. A big thanks you to my contributors! Bon Voyage!

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San Francisco Special Event and Bridal Resources
Are Key Fashion Finds :: May 2003

With the bridal season fast upon us comes the perennial problem of what to wear that is unusual and expressive for all those upcoming special events. I’d like to share the talents and specialties of people who are true artisans, each unique, as alternatives to the tried and true to be found in department stores.

Colleen Quen is a certified French couturier, who works primarily in silk to create gowns and dresses of such distinction that department store gowns become pedestrian in comparison. She considers herself “a designer and sculptor on the body.” She designed a mother of the groom outfit for one of my clients, working sensitively with my client’s silhouette and assets. Her gowns have a sculptural simplicity and elegance that enhance the figure and are timeless in design. Pamela Rosenberg, director of the San Francisco Opera, wore one of Colleen’s gowns for the opening of the opera. Viveca Fox wore a gown Colleen created for the 100th Anniversary of Perrier-Jouet. Garcelle Beauvais was recently featured in magazines wearing Colleen’s yellow cocktail dressed called Lemon Drop. She has a cocktail line named after drinks, as well as an evening, and bridal line. She is working on an every day collection. I have a black silk skirt with graceful pleats at the bottom that I love, as well as a butterfly blouse that I wore to a wedding. Colleen’s website is: www.colleenquencouture.com.

Stacy Lasswell is a talented jewelry designer, who creates feminine, refined pieces in semi-precious stones. She specializes in custom bridal jewelry, but has expanded into fashion jewelry as well. She designed the jewelry for Adam Sandler’s bride and bridal party. She designed a necklace and matching earrings for one of my clients to wear with a simple black dress from Wilkes Bashford that added the necessary zing. She just designed an unusual iolite necklace with gem quality citrine drops to match another client’s lavender shantung outfit. She loves hosting jewelry parties in private homes or corporate offices. Her website is: www.skljewelry.com.

Yafah Franco is the creator of Mikan Handbags, a line of one-of-a-kind handbags made from antique kimono fabrics. She created handbags for each of the bridesmaids in a Lake Tahoe wedding, for which she was featured in Martha Stewart Wedding. Her bags would not only make great bridesmaids gifts, they would be appropriate for guests and other members of the bridal party. Yafah founded the line three years ago after she was deluged with requests for the handbag she created for herself using a piece of obi textile and some old bamboo handles from another old bag. She has since expanded her line to include different handle shapes but remains inspired by the art of the textile. She is currently creating an evening bag that will match a silk shantung outfit for a client of mine who is in the bridal party. Her website is www.mikanhandbags.com.

I wanted to close this personal resource list with a recommendation of a floral designer, H. Julien Designs in Berkeley. Howard’s floral designs have such artistry and flair and reflect his deep knowledge of flowers and his sensitivity to design. He designed the flowers for my daughter’s wedding and understood immediately what she wanted, making perfect suggestions. He also created an autumn centerpiece and holiday wreath for me, again understanding exactly what I wanted when I wasn’t able to articulate what I wanted. Howard’s website is: www.hjuliendesigns.com.

What all these artisans share is a passion for what they do, an ability to connect with clients, and a strong sense of design. As image consultants, these are attributes to emulate and aspire to as well!

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Image Consultants on Judging Garment Quality

As image consultants, excellence and quality infuse every aspect of our work with clients. Not only must we recognize quality in clothing, it’s important for us to be able to educate our clients about quality in garments no matter what the price point. I asked several image consultants to share their views on what they look for when discerning quality in garments.

For Lynn Sydney, “fabric is the most important indicator of quality. For example, stretch cotton garments come in a variety of price ranges, but it is important to test their resilience and ability to ‘spring back’ into shape. Some economical wool garments are stiff and don’t drape well or have an artificial shiny quality, while others (like the stretch wools that Banana Republic does) look good and wear decently. Feel the fabric and bunch it in your fist to test wrinkling and drape.”

Debra Newsholme Cox looks at the “integrity of the construction of the garment”. She and Amy Roseveare agree that a designer garment has higher quality fabric and lining than bridge lines. The buttons will be made of mother-of-pearl or bone rather than plastic. The zippers or other closures will be of the highest quality. Amy pointed out that hems and seams will have extra fabric for easy alterations, and that finer garments have many more stitches per inch. No matter what the price point, the patterns should always match.

Several consultants echoed these same points. Diane Parente added that she looks for the following: “resilient, wrinkle resistant fabrics; buttonholes that are finished without hanging threads or crooked stitching; lining that is tacked to the outer fabric in the shoulders, armholes, and sleeve hems; zippers that will not unzip, even if the tab is down; hemlines that hang evenly; straight stitching; clean, finished seams that do not pull or wrinkle, and pockets that lie flat. ”

Donna Fujii looks for special details in high quality garments, such as bra strap holders with snaps at the shoulders to prevent falling straps in sleeveless dresses. Small weights attached to the hem or a bias cut draped neckline keep the garment anchored. Tailored coats and jackets may have bound buttonholes, instead of machine stitched ones. Unlined summer dresses will have seam binding finished seams. Leather and suede pants, as well as summer trousers, will be lined at least to the knees to mitigate sagging. High quality coats and jackets will have what is referred to as a Hong Kong seam finish, which is a seam binding between the lining and the garment. Look for extra buttons to be provided with the garment as well.

Helena Chenn focuses on the fit of a garment, when discussing quality. For Helena, “a good fit is characterized by a garment that follows the shape of the body with no indications of stress or wrinkling; the shoulder seam sits atop the shoulder; the curves at the neckline, armholes, hips, and the waistline follow the natural contours of the body without either binding or gapping. ” According to Helena, there are “five elements to form the fit of a garment:

1. Ease: this is the extra amount of fullness the manufacturer puts into the garment. The amount of ease is of the utmost significance in fitting for alterations.

2. Line: silhouette, circumference, and design are the elements that make up the structure of the garment. Line affects fit most commonly.

3. Grain: all fabrics have crosswise or lengthwise direction called “grain. ” Garments must be cut on the grain of fabric or they will not hang properly.

4. Set: refers to how the garment hangs on the body. Alterations people will look for wrinkles in the fabric, which usually point to fitting problems. Aside from ease, set is the most important factor in fit.

5. Balance: the proportions of a garment in relation to the body make up the balance. ”

As summed up by Helena, “a perfect fit is invisible—it is the aspect of a garment one feels but cannot see. ” Quality in garments may likewise seem invisible. So many of the elements of quality are hidden from view, such as the lining, the weighted hemline, the finished seams, the stitches per inch. But the overall effect of all these elements contribute to the ultimate quality of a garment that is unmistakable.

In summary, Lynn Sydney offers this sage advice: “I suggest using logic. You can get a good pair of olive drab pants at The Gap, because that is what they do well. You are going to be on thinner ice if you try to buy a silk shirt there. Also, a simply constructed garment, like a little black summer shift dress, can be done well at a lower price point. More detailed clothes require more tailoring, and the budget version often doesn’t compare in terms of fit and feel. When one combines two high quality pieces with a ‘throwaway’ piece, there can be an overall sense of quality in the total outfit, and some ease in the budget. ”

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Plus Size Dressing

This article came about because I’ve been getting more clients who are size 12 and above. This reflects a trend: American women are getting larger. In fact, according to Grace Woman Magazine (www.gracestyle.com (212) 684-1820), 68% of women are a size 12 or up and 52% wear a size 14 or up. These numbers are expected to grow as our population ages. Thus, full-figured women include a significant part of our population, and designers are ignoring them at their peril. The full-figured want the same quality, style, fabrics, and design as our other clients, and often need our services even more than women who can buy off the rack.

The same principles of dressing we employ with our clients who are size 10 and below, apply as well to the full-figured. Fit and proportion are key. Everyone looks slimmer in clothes that fit perfectly. Tight, clinging clothing accentuate the negative, whereas clothing that skim and contour are slimming. Skirts that are longer than you are wide help elongate, though A-lines can sometimes be matronly. Jacket length should only be long enough to cover the hip area because tops that are too long or too short can make you appear heavier or shorter. Shoulder pads can help balance out a bottom-heavy figure, as can boat necks. V-necks elongate the torso. The higher the armhole, the slimmer you will appear. Slimmer sleeves have a slimming effect, as does pushing your sleeves up. Be careful that the hemline does not hit at the heaviest part of the leg. Stiff, bulky, and shiny fabrics should be avoided; instead, opt for fabrics with drape and movement. Shoes with a high vamp and chunky heels will make legs look heavier, as will ankle straps. Jewelry and scarves are great for not only expressing individuality but for directing the eye towards the face. Monochromatic dressing is always slimming; horizontal stripes, gaudy prints, and contrasting colors are not. Simplicity is always a virtue.

While one school of thought adheres to rules of dressing, the other school throws out those rules and says it’s all about attitude, confidence, and how you put things together. Accessories are an area that one can express ones individuality and creativity. Accessories are also important in pulling an outfit together.

I visited several stores to see what was available. I’ve had great luck at Saks, which I think has the best all around selection. Saks includes the following designers: Gianfranco Ferre, Marina Rinaldi, Dana Buchman, Anne Klein, DKNY, Eileen Fisher, David Dart, Oscar de la Renta, Tomolino, and Tamotsu, which also has a few plus-size petites styles. (Talbot’s has just started carrying plus size petites). For eveningwear, there is Carmen Marc Valvo and Sunny Choi. For casual wear, they carry Real Clothes. While not in the Salon Z department, Saks also carries Shirin Guild, with sweaters, tops and jackets that flatter the full-figured.

Nordstrom’s carries their own brand, Caslon (I’ve had luck with their blue jeans), as well as the following: Ralph Lauren, Misook, Dana Buchman, Eileen Fisher, San Remo knits, Garfield and Marks suits, and plus-size coats, both cloth and leather. The department carries shoulder pads, belts, hosiery, and Spanx, which my clients love for smoothing out the bulges without life-threatening constriction. You can also find sporty parkas by Pacific Trail, in addition to fashion parkas by Ralph Lauren.

Macy’s has a large selection of Jones of NY, as well as Eileen Fisher, Liz Claiborne, Ralph Lauren, INC, and Tommy Hilfiger. Their lingerie department has a special full figure section.

Elana is a line of clothing sold privately through consultants (www.elanbytanner.com). I have a client who loves the line and buys several pieces at each of the four trunk shows each year. They carry fashionable separates with good quality at reasonable prices. Debbie Powell is an Elana consultant in Hillsborough and has a website with great resources and links to other websites: www.sizewithstyle.com.

Go Figure (124 Clement St. , San Francisco. (415) 876-4924) is a great place for the creative client. The store is jammed and difficult to maneuver in, but if you’re in a foraging mood and looking for the unique, then it is worth a visit. They also carry shoes/slippers, interesting jewelry, and handbags.

Harper Greer (580 Fourth St. at Brannan, San Francisco. (415) 543-4066) is a good bet for evening gowns as well as classic suits for that job interview. The owner is also the designer, with production right above the store. I asked about petites, which they don’t carry, but they will do alterations. They have a nice selection of Chinois jackets and accessories.

Babette carries a line of clothing with forgiving pleats at two locations in North Beach and South Park (1400 Grant Ave. , San Francisco 94133. (415) 986-1174 and 92 South Park, San Francisco 94107. (415) 267-0282).

Mio carries Harari, an Asian-inspired line cut generously, and is at 2035 Fillmore St. , San Francisco 94115. (415) 931-5620.

Cicada has art-to-wear clothing and is at 547 Sutter St. , San Francisco. 94102 (415) 398-4000.

On the Peninsula, my scout, Amy Roseveare, reports that Bloomingdale’s has a very good plus-size department, with Eileen Fisher, DKNY, Ellen Tracy, as well as evening dresses.

For casual attire there is Eddie Bauer, Target, Old Navy, L. L. Bean’s, J. Jill, Coldwater Creek, and Land’s End, with their own websites for ordering online.

Foundations are critically important for the plus-size figure. A website called Plus Size Bra, at www.plusizebras.org, offers information and instructions for finding the correct bra size as well as retail information for finding larger bras.

A website that is a cyber space fashion mall is www.fashionplussize.com. For plus-size wedding gowns, there is a website called www.plussizebridal.com. For full-figured teens, there is a directory at www.largerteens.com.

Diane Parente recently outfitted an 11 year old who is a size 20 and did so with tact, wisdom, and great success at Macy’s. Lines such as INC had the requisite hipness and youthfulness for a teen. As Diane observed: “One of the reasons I love my profession is everyday is an opportunity to show clients how wonderful they can look with the right clothing and accessories. ”

Oprah Winfrey and Star Jones from “The View” embody the maxim: style is not a matter of size; it’s a matter of attitude—which is the tagline from Marina Rinaldi. Remember that all women are beautiful, and our task is to help women express just that!

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Book Review: 40 over 40; 40 Things Every Woman Over 40 Needs to Know About Getting Dressed, By Brenda Kinsel

Hackneyed prose and recycled clichés abound. Material that is fresh, inspiring, and funny is always a rarity. AICI is fortunate to have Brenda Kinsel, who has skillfully penned such a rarity, within our own ranks. In 40 over 40; 40 Things Every Woman Over 40 Needs to Know About Getting Dressed (Wildcat Canyon Press, $16. 95), Kinsel demonstrates her understanding of the psychology of dressing and navigates the reader through the often dreaded and trying muddle of getting dressed, with wisdom, and much humor. She knows about negative self–talk, denial, confusion, and disorganization. But as she states, “I’m trusting you to care for yourself, your appearance, projecting your personal self in the most loving way. I’m going to help you get dressed knowing what’s good for you, because getting dressed is a loving act, a creative experience, a party that you can have with yourself every single day. ” She advises women to “dress the body you are in now” and to “ignore all numbers on hang tags,” because it’s good fit that flatters. “Your body is not a number…It only wants to be honored in clothes that fit right. ” She devotes several chapters to actual exercises to develop what Kinsel terms, a “blueprint of your life. ” The goal is to be able to devise “a wardrobe that responds quickly and completely to all the demands for clothes in your life. “

Subsequent chapters focus on such concrete advice as what to buy, what not to buy, how to shop for a bathing suit, how to look like you’ve lost ten pounds, how to dress for your high school reunion, how to dress for divorce, even how to accessorize jammies. Kinsel reminds readers to only buy what they love, to get a good haircut, lift up those bra straps, buy quality, and, ultimately, to embrace change.

Chapters are uplifting and celebratory: “Clothes celebrate, announce, advertise, and declare yourself. You hardly have a more powerful tool for life. ” Kinsel weaves wonderful metaphors throughout to illuminate her principles. Chapter 18 is entitled, “Clothes are like Boyfriends. ” Kinsel’s axiom: “I believe there are principles women could use to pick a good man (or to walk away from a bad one early on) that also apply to picking out a good, meaningful wardrobe. ” Chapter 21, entitled, “Accessories Go to the Movies,” is devoted to the mysteries of accessorizing. Her advice: “Look at the art of accessorizing as the art of moviemaking. You’re the director of this movie that’s you. Your clothes are the scenery or backdrop. Your accessories are the stars in the movie. They are there to help tell the story about you. ”

Caveat: This is laugh out loud funny material, and the reader will recognize herself in many of Kinsel’s descriptions! I had to squelch belly laughs so as not to awaken the sleeping passenger beside me, while reading her book on a long, cross-country flight. You may want to read this in a less public environment, so you can really let loose!

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If other consultants have other ideas or resources please send them to me at jay@jaytani. com, and the information will be posted in the next newsletter.

Copyright © 2011 Jalyn Tani Lang. All Rights Reserved.